Deckard's Guide

A solid premise for matching patterns.

2012-02-03T13:44:00.000-08:00

Mixing patterns successfully

Big stripes - small stripes
Big stripes - big plaids
Big dots - big plaids
Big plaids - big windowpane

Similar scale different pattern.
Different scale similar patterns.

See the plaid and stripes on my outfit... same scales

It's not a rule set in stone though it at times harmonizes better when you lean toward the rule.

Below: Little stripes in the shirt flow with the small lines in the broad plaid in this case.
I think it works... in the end, the true judge is your eye and if you think it looks good. Focus goes to the bolder pattern on the jacket.

Below, Ray Milland in Next Time We Love wears a broad striped tie with a narrow striped shirt. The focus goes to the bolder pattern on the tie.

Socks don't need to match your pants, but unless you want to make a grand statement, they should echo the color of your pants.

Wide striped tie and the jacket with a large jacket. Works great if the two patterns are of relatively the same size and one pattern is overpowering the other.

Ideally I'd have cream flannel trousers pared with the heavier jacket, though I thought the linen's worked fine for this warmer day in L.A.

The white cotton hanky shows I'm ready for anything.

It's not always advisable to mix three stripe patterns, unless you have one that is subtle and very much part of the background (the shirt) and two that are bolder. The two remaining stripe patterns must be of different scales or the look will be very distracting.

I have seen on several occasions where men have attempted to pair a solid color sport coat with a pair of trousers that is near to the color of the jacket, in affect, trying to create a pseudo suit... DON'T DO THAT. A suit is always a matching material jacket, vest, and trousers, and you can leave the vest behind at times. When you wear a solid sport coat, always wear trousers that are complimentary to the jacket's color, far enough away from the jacket's color as to not be confused as you trying to match the color.

Light beige jacket with brown trousers.

Natural linen colored jacket with british khaki linen trousers.

Light brown sport coat, dark brown trousers (ignore the bare ankle, it was a bad sock day for me).

The scale of the pattern on the tie is in scale with the stripe pattern on the jacket. Different patterns same scale (I was on assignment that day, hence the press pass).

Fallow the basic rules at the top, and over time build your closet with a good palette of colors that coordinate, and you won't end up blinding your friends with pattern confusion when you run out of clean white shirts and are forced to wear that windowpane with the polka dots.

Below, a classic Hollywood jacket paired with a subtle arctic blue striped shirt, silver and red bowtie with an even smaller stripe, the color not too red as to steal the show, and a hard to find Fair Isle sweater with a pattern bold enough to take the attention but not ruin the show.

Join the sartorial revolution.

2012-01-29T20:56:00.000-08:00

... and it all starts with a sports jacket.

You look in the mirror and get that hair perfectly quaffed in a vertical spike that tilts back just a little, looks great -- now for the clothing. A black t-shirt with a spirited set of words scrolled on the chest, and to cover your hindquarters, you choose that red pair of knee length shorts that coordinate perfectly creating a harmony that you have spent decades honing and it defines you -- it is you! Your friends know it as you, you feel comfortable, and you don’t think you can be done any better. You go to the club and, well you see the guy at the table with his girlfriend and he’s wearing a button up casual shirt and jeans, the man next to you at the bar is wearing jeans and a grey t-shirt with a wolf image on his back and the man behind the bar is sporting a t-shirt with a beer logo on his chest and a pair of black trousers. Great it’s a club, that’s normal. But I do have to say that we sartorialy inclined men are abnormal beings and a t-shirt and jeans at a nightclub, a house party, a date or an auction just isn’t going to cut it when you want to slice a hole in the crowd. Whether it be good or bad press, standing out is still a better alternative than falling into that gray in-between that is today’s clothing standard

In Saturday Night Fever, Tony Manero rocked a white suit because he knew he’d either be noticed as a clown or seen as the hottest guy in the place. All the others in between looked like people wearing clothes in-between. Those others were at their comfort level when it came to style, sartorial cowards? Perhaps, but some people need to be grass on the lawn letting that flower stand out to be admired.

Like a uniform makes a soldier feel like a soldier, a stronger willed set of clothes can make a stronger willed person. So the black t-shirt and red shorts combo is nice, but here in 2012 it’s the easy way out, and if you are looking to a be a sartorial stand out and reach for that higher end of the fun spectrum you’re going to need to break out of your shell and dress the part! This means the next level.

Tailored clothing. Trust me guys the world around you is going to love it! It’s not going to be easy, there is a transition time and nobody has the eye off the bat for creating that tailored wardrobe that mixes and matches. It’s an eye that has to be honed, honed in the same fires that told you that t-shirt went with that pair of shorts, yet this time around you have to be the rebel and fight the urge to blend in; a rebel with a tie on. Where do you start? Do you buy a suit? And what color? Well if you haven’t got a suit, don’t go for one yet, it will just put you in a corner with your style unless you buy three off the bat, but I don’t think that’s wise until you have some experience with what looks good on you when it comes to fitted jackets and trousers).

No suit. If you are starting from scratch there is one way to go and that is with a versatile sports jacket in a brown or gray color. Best case scenario you can get two jackets with patterns that aren’t too loud and if you’re lucky they will both work with khaki, gray, black, navy and brown trousers (just keep hunting that jacket is out there). If you have two well-fitted staple jackets you can buy a slew of trousers and work on the shirts and ties as you go. With this start, you have the versatility with colors and a start of a look that will put you on your way to reinventing that droll t-shirt clad man into a true man of the world that looks at home at the congressional hearing and the party after the indictment is called off.

Yes the suits will have to come next, but before being cornered into a single look, take the time to build your wardrobe piece by piece, and that means taking off those shorts and putting on those khakis that are in that drawer (I know you have them) and roaming around till you find the sports jacket that suits you. The suits will come, but that’s when you are settled

Just a shot of Tony for good measure.

There is a sartorial revolution in the winds and you too can join us by getting that sport jacket. It can be gray or brown or even navy blue with shiny buttons (a blazer) just as long as you can wear it with jeans, khakis, gray flannel trousers, and just about any shirt in your closet that has a row of buttons that lead up to your neck and end in a collar that can house a necktie.

From walking to dancing without changing your shoes.

2012-01-23T23:57:00.000-08:00

For dancers who like to wear suits, yet don't always like to look like they are strictly wearing their shoes for dancing.

I tend to always wear a suit and tie when I dance, and, over time, I've come to the conclusion that I don’t like changing any part of my outfit when traveling between the car to the dance floor. Too much fuss! I’ve been asked by more than a few people about what footwear can best be used on days where you just want to be dressed up for walking about town and also be used for dancing... well, here is a bit of a dance shoe revue 2012, in order of what I'd most likely wear on the dance floor to what I'd least likely wear.

Allen Edmonds

Price range is around $300

Perhaps the best all around shoe you can find for working through the day, hitting the town, and then dancing. A good all day dress shoe. Allen Edmonds is one of two companies left in the USA that makes shoes the way they were made in the 1930s and 1940s. The other company is Alden. You can walk around in them all day and transition straight to the dance floor with no worry. I choose them over any other shoe when it comes to dancing for their sheer utility. One of the beautiful features of these shoes is that classic footbed with cork underneath. Over time this provides a custom imprint of your foot in the shoe. Just like Granddad used to wear. Keep the uppers polished now and again, and have them resoled when you start seeing cork through the soles and these could last you a decade or more with good rotation between other pairs.

Florsheim

Price range is around $100

One of the shoe companies that has put out more misses than hits in the last several decades. They tend to cause my feet to ache more than the Bostonian or Allen Edmonds ever will. This has been due to the footbeds of their shoes not truly forming to my feet. They feel very hard after a long day of wear and their cushioning inside is no replacement for a footbed that forms to your feet. Not too heavy, and okay as a dress shoe that can be worn dancing; yet, because of the materials used, the uppers and the soles tend to wear out faster than Allen Edmonds.

Bostonian (First Flex)

Price range is around $85

Bostonian used to be one of the higher end names back in the day, but the blush has fallen off that rose when it comes to quality of materials and construction. However, when it comes to a good beater dance shoe with which you can pound the pavement, there is no better dress shoe that lasts like a sneaker than the shoes made by Bostonian. One caution: this is a shoe that has an upper which doesn't appear to be a very nice porous leather. As a result, the uppers tend to crack after a few months of wear, so even polishing doesn't really give them that nice patina that it gives to better shoes. They also tend to cost as much to resole as they cost to buy a new pair. Still, when you really need a pair of shoes that can be walked in and danced in, and you don’t want to make a hefty investment, go for Bostonian. They have very hard rubber heels as well, so feel free to do heel slides.

Stacy Adams

Price range is around $110

This company's shoes look like they walked out of the 1920s, and have soles that are great for dancing. This makes them a good shoe if you are the sporadic dress shoe wearer who wants a really snazzy pair for dancing, but I don’t recommend them for daily wear as the uppers will wear out as fast as the soles if you are as abusive to dress shoes as I am. If you buy them, just realize this shoe isn’t really worth a resole.

. The soles are great for dancing.

Re-Mix

Price range is around $165

I was excited when I saw that Re-Mix was finally releasing a new style for men. I wasn’t excited about the fit. A bit too loose in the heel for my liking, and the construction is a little lower than that of dress shoes within the same price range. They are pretty light and have a leather sole and heel that are great for dancing. They have a very prominent arch support that also made my feel a little off when compared to the other offerings in which I was more at home with dancing and walking. More of a show shoe than a go shoe.

Aris Allen

Price range is around $75

A shoe that I attempted to walk in before I decided I don’t want to wear them anywhere but on the dance floor. Specifically made as dance shoes, they are very lightweight and a standard among the top-notch dancers on the scene. I’m not a pro, yet I dance a lot so I bought a pair. They are fast on the floor, yet I have fickle feet that need a bit more support and a better footbed than these provide. I stopped wearing them when I started wearing Bostonians for dance purposes. Aris Allens are light weight, good for dancing but can’t take the walking.

Bleyers

Price range is around $90

I remember when they released their Balboa shoe and it was a craze for everyone to have a pair back in swing’s revival. Like the Aris Allens, they are strictly dance floor shoes. They have a good classic color scheme yet are definitely not for anything but dance floor use as the uppers and soles will tear apart easily if taken on frequent sidewalk jaunts. The lifespan is short as the soles are much like a sponge. The soles will soon show how much dancing you’ve done as the color wears off the edges. Light weight, and good for dancing, but not for walking.

The modern/retro college wardrobe

2012-01-10T17:23:00.000-08:00

Harold Lloyd making a good impression sporting his freshman beanie

For those who are going to school in the modern times yet don't want to dress like it, I suggest the following easy wear and care wardrobe essentials for the gentleman with a bag full of books.

1 wool tweed cap
2 fedoras 1 grey 1 brown
1 wool scarf
1 overcoat
1 raincoat
2 patterned sport coats 1 Brown 1 blue (tweed suggested)
1 navy blazer (if you really find one with a crest, make sure it’s from your own school)
1 grey suit
2 sweater vests 1 solid 1 patterned
10 dress shirts 4 white 6 patterned and colored
15 ties some wool some silk must have 1 school tie.
4 pair wool dress trousers 1 in gray flannel
4 pair casual trousers... khakis... linen
2 belts leather 1 black 1 brown
2 pair leather soled shoes 1 brown 1 black
2 pair shoes with rubber soles for weather and comfort (white bucks and saddle shoes)
2 pair pajamas
1 pair slippers
1 terry cloth robe
1 umbrella
6 white handkerchiefs
1 pair round sunglasses

Lots of socks and underwear

Convertible Scholar from Custom Hide

1901 Logan Oxford from Nordstrom

For the athlete

2 pair cotton sweats in gray
1 pair gym shoes, canvas and rubber in black or white

2011 re-released Converse 1946 U.S. Army athletic shoe

For the “I'm not always old school” days

ballcaps (have at least one from your school)
various t-shirts
jeans
sneakers
sunglasses
casual button shirts
windbreaker
leather jacket
sweats
school sweater

More college wardrobe suggestions that will impress your professors in the 2012 semesters.

Buster Keaton

sporting bowtie, fancy v-neck sweater tucked into belted trousers,

Buster Keaton

sporting beret, striped regatta jacket, fancy sweater vest tucked into belted wide legged trousers, carrying gladstone bag

Fedora hat basics (you need to know this stuff if you own [or want to own] a fedora hat)

2012-01-09T06:40:00.000-08:00

Bogart wore one with the brim over his eyes to rough up gunmen. Jimmy Stewart kneaded one in his hands when he looked nervous in front of the girls. It was a rumpled fedora that gave Clark Gable that shabby look of a drunkard in front of the boys, and a beaten hat that helped Roosevelt sell his ideals to the common worker. And what about you? What’s the impression you want to give? Are you a rakish adventurer or a city-worn reporter? Your hat can tell the story. As with all worthwhile stories, it won’t be told overnight or in its entirety with your first purchase.

The classic fedora is the perfect first addition to a man’s hat wardrobe; finding the right hat and knowing how to care for it is what will separate the men from the boys. I’ve created a focused guide for those new to fedora ownership outlining things to look out for when making this all important purchase and how to take care of your fedora once you find the one that's right for you.

1. COLOR : Begin with grey. Brown or any other color just isn’t as versatile as a grey fedora – it will take you from wear with suits to a fashion piece on your days off. It can be worn with blue, grey, and black suits and pretty much any sports jacket you have. (You’ll be happy you held off on the brown hat when you notice that you’re spared being called ‘Indiana Jones’ every day of the week.)

2. SIZING : Never buy a hat that’s even a bit too tight, even if you think it will stay on better on those windy days! You don’t want to have to tug if off of your head, and it will cause enough headaches (literally) that you won’t wear it. If your choice is between sizes, always go big. Leather can shrink with constant exposure to moisture and drying out.

3. QUALITY : Resilience in the rain and pliability are two factors to ask about when purchasing your fedora. Your felt hat will soak up water like a sponge in a downpour, and you don’t want your hat drooping over time. Asking whether the hat can be crushed or rolled and still return to its original shape without the integrity being compromised is another important inquiry. Some felts are better than others in this regard. (I tend to abuse my hats and roll them for travel, not all hats can take this abuse).

4. CLEANING AND CARE : Your hat can look rumpled, but please keep it clean! Brushing keeps the dust away, and a hat can collect dust for decades that can be pushed off with a quick whisk. (Always brush your hat in a counter-clockwise direction.) For those hearty, deep-down felt problems, I pull out my off-white rubber hat sponge. It takes out those easy-to-get grease and salt stains that come from grabbing the brim and crown. If that doesn’t work, I go for the heavy-duty with Scout hat cleaner. Just spray it on and let it dry to a powder, then brush it off. If the stain is deeper and you are not used to using Naphtha or other cleaning agents, then take your hat to a professional. For dress hats, I highly recommend Graham Thompson of Optimo Hats in Chicago. There aren’t many hatters left that can do a good job cleaning and blocking, and if you want the best, he’s the one!

5. RAIN : Don’t be afraid to wear your fedora in the rain, but you need to know that when felt gets wet, it tends to stay in the shape that it dries in. If it is a soft felt hat like a fedora with a snap brim and the hat is soaked, leave the hat, brim turned up, on a flat surface with a towel underneath. If you leave the hat upside down on its crown (as many hatters suggest) you will end up with flat spots on the top of the crown, and if you turn out the sweatband the brim will droop, so don’t. (If it is a firm hat like a Western hat or like some of the Indiana Jones hats on the market, or a homburg, place a towel on the arm of a chair or a sofa and place the hat on the towel with the brim hanging over the sides. If you leave the hat on a flat surface the hat will conform to that surface.)

A good gray hat can easily work with a navy or gray suit... a solid business headwear staple.

A white hat gives versatility, and with the right ribbon like on the one above, you can wear it with a navy or brown suit with ease. With a black ribbon, you can wear it with nearly anything.

It's a sin.

2011-12-27T14:36:00.000-08:00

Okay, I give into the idea of fashion taking precedence at times, but when it comes to an ankle boot that is truly meant for utility of use, I get offended when shoe designers mess with what works and I conclude that the designer didn’t do research into why certain things exist.

It’s a sin that some ankle boot makers make finger loops that are for affectation and not function.

The ankle boot finger loop should be big enough for a finger to thread into the loop so you can yank your boot over your heel. With this loop you don’t need to use a shoehorn. Yes it might cause the shoehorn business to take a hit if ankle boot designers began putting a functional version on all ankle boots, yet that is the plight of living in an era where clothing not only means fashion, but means utility as well.

On that utility note… WHY ARE THERE SO MANY ANKLE BOOTS THAT DON’T HAVE SPEED LACES? If you look at the photos, you’ll see a pair with holes for threading your laces as it goes up your ankle, and one with hooks for speed lacing your boot. I prefer the easier speed lace when compared to the cumbersome holes that at times have to be unlaced in order to accommodate me putting my foot in.

Yeah yeah, there is the argument that regular lace holes look better on an ankle boot, but I’m wearing an ankle boot for more than looks… it keeps the mud out, it keeps the cold breeze off. I want that extra ankle support, and I don’t want to wrestle with getting it on before I go to work in the morning.

That’s all.

Bad Design

Good Design

Horween Shell Cordovan; is it worth the expense?

2011-12-18T01:13:00.000-08:00

I purchased my first pair of Horween Shell shoes a little over 2 years ago. When they showed up I was hopeful, yet noticed that they were dull in their burgundy color (#8). I’m not a burgundy shoe fan in general, yet this wasn’t a regular burgundy shoe that I bought, it’s one that has a reputation for looking exquisite over time. There are photos abound on the Internet showing the glowing luster that Shell Cordovan mellows and warps into, and I bought that first pair in anxious excitement.

I wore them around town, danced in them, took them through evil weather and then took them through even more. Over that time I was wondering when that great patina would arrive, when that dull luster would go away. These after all are made of a material that is touted as having the ability to pull off a shine without needing polish. The shoe that has been through a tanning process so rigorous, that it sweats out its long term oil wax bath liquids in order to give you a natural coating with which to buff a shine.

That first pair is still dark, still doesn’t quite have the patina I was expecting, but in the shoe’s defense, I did abuse them in a way that most wearers in the 21^st century would never do. I have many many pairs of leather dress shoes, and I wear those pairs like most men wear sneakers. To be realistic about shoes and why we wear them, In the end, it all comes down to how comfortable you are (let’s ignore fashion for a minute). The sole and the footbed of the shoe have to be more important than the upper if you expect to take them to and from work for several years.

Being Men’s shoes, you want a pair that can be walked in day after day, and (yes you must rotate your shoes so you don’t soak them with sweat till they rot) take the punishment while still holding onto their stylish look when in the crowd. We live in a fast food world with fast food clothes (got that from my girlfriend), but we don’t need to give into that fast food idea of style. I bought these shoes to see if they wore better and would have that ‘special’ patina over time, and when compared to calf (the other well known leather in men’s dress shoes) I have to say yes to the wear. Yes, the uppers will get scratched and beaten and all you have to do is take a shine brush to them and go to town. You will need a little cordovan cream at times that will darken them a bit, yet when compared to the average leather you see on the foot of the man that (on rare occasion) will wear dress shoes and be next to you on the morning train, you can walk in confidence knowing that your shoes will look less cracked and beaten to a pulp as the years go by.

As for the patina… yes… time passes with Horween Shell Cordovan. Some warp like my first pair and some crease and break at the perfect point on my foot and keep the shoe looking quite elegant (when near the other guys calf shoes). The patina, over time, makes the shoe glow, yet doesn’t really come to life unless in sunlight.

You’ll get stuff that looks like crud in those creases and that can be buffed out.

You’ll see a dull luster on the shoes that you think will not go away; ad some cordovan cream and brush like mad.

Buff them

Wear them in evil weather

Add cordovan cream now and again

Buff them again.

The answer is YES.

Oh, and I found that even though I love Ralph Lauren’s dark Cognac wingtips, the burgundy shell really works with… well almost anything. Gray, Navy, Brown...

P. S. They do get lighter in the creases over time, not darker… RAD!

A closer look at a silver screen topper come to life.

2011-12-14T15:18:00.000-08:00

The hat of tomorrow, today!

2011-12-01T18:15:00.000-08:00

The first paragraph is interesting, but if you want to cut to the chase jump to the second.

Over the years (at least the ones I’ve been alive (and a few decades before)), the dimensions of menswear have changed from the look of fitted trousers and baggy jackets to fitted jackets and baggy trousers, to where it kinda is today… fitted jackets and tight trousers. This look being close to that of the look men wore in the 1960s, that slim blade through the city look that came about in a time where men were eliminating the hat from their wardrobe. In fact, if the man had a hat with his suit it would tend to be strictly for fashion alone, a hat with little to no sun protection, with a stingy brim and low profile crown so not to distract from the streamlined look. Well… I’m not quite against that look, yet as of late I have been frustrated by its permeation in sartorial society (primarily because I don’t have a streamlined human form). It’s wonderful that there is a more tailored ideal out there combating the hoards of people getting the high tear priced reproductions of mining clothing from the 1920s. Regardless of whether or not it’s what I love, it’s a step in an interesting direction. A direction that I want to see grow into a neo future styled world with a sea of people wearing retro futuristic clothing while talking to their holographic friends that are being projected out of small shiny robots that float and fallow our every move.

Anywho…

I have a pretty large collection of men’s hats that were produced within the last 100 years, and most of them are from the 1930s and 40s, back in what I consider the heyday of headwear. Because I’m into the 1930s man about town aesthetic, I tend to go for hats that have a sense of proportion that was common in that era, brim not too wide, crown not too low; I’ve loved this balance so much with my wears that I have hunted down those vintage hats to keep me happy and covered when it rains. Or when I need to keep the sun off my face. Unfortunately there is a lack of this type of hat in this era unless you go custom. Yes, there are lots of hats on the market today. Hats that look like they go with many things, yet there are few, to my eye, that look as good with a well tailored 1930s style suit. That’s why I’m releasing one onto today’s market. I hope you enjoy it.

It’s available for pre order now from Matt Deckard Apparel.

The Powell Fedora

in Tusk White

6” crown

2.5” brim

2” ribbon

bound edge

roan leather sweatband

To pre order one in your size, use paypal to send your address and hat size and $225.00 and $12.00 shipping to mattdeckard@yahoo.com

Please feel free to contact me with any questions.

A hat for the man of action.

The Big 2011 Los Angeles Tweed Pub Crawl Followup

2011-11-26T01:00:00.000-08:00

Now and again you just need to let go and hang out with your pals and tell all the odd tales and happy experiences of the year. I'm happy this is turning into such an occasion.

There were around 25 people, including members of Ask Andy's Fashion Forum and The Fedora lounge that attended. I give a hearty thanks to all that participated.

I know I had an amazing, and semi drunken, time that spanned the blocks of Los Angeles in a way only a native can do (even if the next location on the list was the best recommendation from the person next to me). I hope to see you all next year.

The 2nd Annual Los Angeles Tweed Pub Crawl Nov 10

2011-09-18T16:33:00.000-07:00

There comes a time in life when friends, a cocktail and tweed are the only things between you and a night of being cold and alone.

The Second Annual Los Angeles Tweed Pub Crawl

Thursday November 10, 2011
Starting at 8:00pm

Wear your tweed. Whether it be a suit, a sport jacket, a cap, a scarf a skirt or a tie, put it on and let’s go out!

We’ll meet at the bar at the Millennium Biltmore Hotel in Los Angeles and stroll to downtown’s finest purveyors of cocktails and ales. From 8pm ‘til we’re through.

Hope to see you there.

The suit shouldn't make your legs look shorter than they are.

2011-09-12T02:09:00.000-07:00

With the low waist on the trousers and the bunching at the ankles, it just makes his legs look shorter than they are.

There are other issues like the skinny tie and wide lapel imbalance, or the long bunching sleeves, but the critically awkward elements that stand out the most are the pants and the vest. They destroy any anatomical harmony that the eye can enjoy.

He's a slim man; the long vest trying to go over the low wasted trousers gives it a saggy belly look. If he's going to wear a vest, he needs higher wasted trousers. The vest would have to be shorter giving focus to his trim waist.... Also, he should get those trousers hemmed, he's gonna get his heel caught in the leg and trip.

Good thing is he's wearing a suit. I've had worse fitting things, but I try not to wear them to red carpet functions.

Beverly Hills September 7th 2PM Stroll

2011-08-24T15:24:00.000-07:00

This one's for the locals. I hear tell Andy Gilchrest (Ask Andy About Clothes) and Richard Torregrossa (author of Cary Grant: A Celebration of Style) may be meeting us along the way.

We meet at Brooks Brothers, head to Ralph Lauren, then to Leather Soul, then Carroll and Co. and to the the various shops around the blocks.

2pm at Brooks Brothers, I'll probably be going through shirts downstairs. Wear a suit and bring conversation.

It's a modern menswear crawl.

Bespoke Shoes in Hollywood

2011-05-20T00:18:00.000-07:00

Willie's in Hollywood under the helm of Raul Ojeda is beginning to establish itself as a a top of the line bespoke shoemaker for more than just the studio circuit. The shop for years has been making custom lasts for the stars and has been working directly with Hollywood to design some of the most iconic footwear seen on screen. From Captain Kirks boots to to Wonder Woman's... well, boots, Willies has been in the business of making the stars walk like stars for over 50 years.

Raul's Custom Don Ville shoes promise to help your gate, as well as your looks. The baseline price for a first pair of shoes is around $1,600.00, then drops substantially after the last is made and your foot's needs are nailed. Yes... A high price, but when compared to the number of cheaper shoes you can go through, wouldn't it be nice to buy at least a pair a year that can be resoled and repaired to perfection to 17 years, than to have a three pairs of not quite right pairs a year that you may not even want repaired due to fickle fits and styling?

From my conversation with Raul yesterday, he's always studying the other shoemakers around the world and building on what he sees. I appreciate the fact that he's an encyclopedia on what everyone in the market is making in general.

Timeless, and you decide what you want.

Someday... someday. Best part is that they are local and I can stop by anytime I like just to watch the leather being sewn.

http://williesshoeservice.com

Return of the Strawfut

2011-03-06T18:19:00.000-08:00

The sequel to this post
CLICK HERE

I received a new pair of shoes yesterday, something I've been waiting a few years to see. The new Allen Edmonds Strawfut. Back in 2009, the only pair I'd seen were vintage and falling apart, yet I loved them just the same.

There were three main reasons I felt they were a fantastic shoe.

#1 The foot shape was just right for me. The shoes had a foot shape that was common for the day with a wide forefoot and narrow heel... this was a big plus that gave me lots of toe room; something which always made me regret my rack full of modern dress shoes that tend to be designed with a small toe box (my Hobbit-like feet require Hobbit-like shoes).

#2 They breathed. The shoes had a mesh that allowed air to flow freely around the foot. Being a Californian and a dancer who spends a lot of time on the floor, having shoes that breathe is a great bonus. They are shoes from the 1940s, and the construction is completely vintage, so when the mention of the mesh being nylon came up, the heads at Allen Edmonds thought it odd material to be used, even in the conversation with Paul Grangaard, the CEO of Allen Edmonds, I think he and their head designer thought nylon was a bit taboo when it came to shoes made for business. But being a material from the 1930s, it was a time when something like a nylon mesh to keep shoes air cooled was very innovative.

#3 They flexed and needed no break in time. With nylon mesh on much of the upper, there is no leather to break in on top of your foot. This makes them lighter and more maneuverable when it comes to... well, doing anything. They move and feel like leather soled sneakers.

A perfect off the shelf shoe when it came to my foot, yet the only way to get a pair was to hunt through vintage shops, or build a time machine, and with current science saying that you can't time travel back into the past unless you'd built your time machine there already -- well I guess I had to choose my own route.

I posted the shoes everywhere and wrote about how much I loved them. Because of this, I eventually received a call from the CEO of the still-existing Allen Edmonds company and we discussed the styles of the past.

It's a little over two years later, I still keep in contact with the company through emails now and again. And I also think it's high time I finished writing and showed you the new addition to the Allen Edmonds Spring shoe collection...

I received them in the mail yesterday. They are a veritable duplicate of the 1940s shoes made by Allen Edmonds.

Before I get to them, I have to say this,

I want to thank Paul Grangaard and Jim Kass and the whole Allen Edmonds company for returning the Strawfut to the their line of shoes. I hope you sell a million, and know that a good dress shoe that is flexible and really breathes is back on the market to fill a sartorial hole that has been very empty.

Thank you!

I do have to say that the ones I received are not the production model, but a special make. The production model is done on the #5 last that has a narrower toe.

Now to the shoes.

This pair made for me is done on the #1 last that has a wide toe-box like the originals. The footbed is Poron which is a space age dense memory foam wrapped in a layer of leather; very comfortable. The soles are Rendenbach leather that is a denser leather that can take more of a beating over time than the standard Allen Edmonds soles, and the heels are combination rubber leather, and I just like the look.

The (new) Strawfut

The production version is Available here.

Super Cloth Versus Vintage

2011-03-04T17:51:00.001-08:00

Fur Felt Hat Care #1

2011-01-20T08:42:00.000-08:00

Put a Lid on It

2010-11-28T15:29:00.000-08:00

Introducing the Laureate Fedora by Matt Deckard Apparel.
This is the prototype. All the details have been hammered out to create the highest quality production felt hat on the market.

I've gone with a high crown and somewhat medium in scale brim in order to accommodate the face shape of most men. Too often do I see dress hats with crowns too low and brims too wide creating an affected look when worn. A dress hat should look natural with a suit and tie, not comical.

I've been studying what's currently out there for years and with that knowledge have worked out what you see below.

There is no powder in this felt so no discoloration or color rubbing off on your hands should occur. The felt is all beaver and has as little stiffener as possible. Over time it should make for a nice soft companion of a hat.

Russet colored roan leather sweatband and white satin liner.

This is the prototype. More info to come as time goes by.

Looks rich, yet can't be comfortable.

2010-11-27T23:57:00.000-08:00

The anti low waist and anti belt posting.

Bit of a diaper look with the low waist and the forward pleats that are slightly too tight and bow out, watch the movie (Wall Street), and then watch a movie from the 1930s with men wearing forward pleat trousers and you'll see the difference. If I were him I'd go 5 inches higher with the waste and have a little more room in general for the seat and the crotch.

The waist and the fit of trousers is a science that depends upon tailors that study anatomy and each and every body type. I go very high with my waist bands because I want comfort and style, not just style... it's also where the narrowest point of me is. I need trousers that can stay up without issue if made to fit without a belt. I wear suspenders because gravity sometimes contests my decision. If I wear a belt I tend to be adjusting all the time like when I have on a pair of trousers without one. Bottom line, suspenders suspend, belts just belt.

Why can't Gordon be comfortable? Well if he's got money he's eating, and if he's really a broker he hasn't time to workout... which means he has a belly. If his waistband is cutting across his belly rather than sitting above it at his waist, it cuts into his belly when he sits. Many men opt for the look of putting their belly above their waist in these situations, I advise to go above. In the end it's just more appealing.

2010-11-04T19:01:00.001-07:00

Presented by Matt Deckard Apparel
www.mattdeckard.com

There comes a time in life when friends, a cocktail and tweed are the only things between you and a night of being cold and alone.

The First Annual Los Angeles Tweed Pub Crawl

Thursday November 11, 2010
Starting at 8:00pm

Wear your tweed. Whether it be a suit, a sport jacket, a cap, a scarf a skirt or a tie, put it on and let’s go out!

We’ll meet at the bar at the Millennium Biltmore Hotel in Los Angeles and stroll to downtown’s finest purveyors of cocktails and ales. From 8pm ‘til we’re through.

Hope to see you there.

A jacket should be hard to put on and easy to wear, not easy to put on and hard to wear.

2010-09-07T12:13:00.000-07:00

When it comes to clothes, and clothes that are meant for utility and looks, anatomy and fit should always come first. Fashion having an all powerful steel grip on the design of clothes isn't why I went into business, durability and fit is.

For a starter in leaving bits on here about good fit and bad fit -- the armhole.

There are a lot of preferences when it comes to styling. You must decide the lapel widths and jacket length and pants drape. But when it comes to the armhole and your suit there is a good and a bad.

Bad Fit

The standard armhole you see at shops today is created by using a ratio to determine how people's bodies are shaped. Because the armhole is so big, you end up with a batwing effect that makes the suit hard to wear. The fabric pulls around with you as you move.

A fit like this always tends to ruin my day, especially when I decide I want to crawl under a train when escaping from an assassin that has recognized me on a trip to Prague.

Good Fit

With a more fitted armhole, you have more mobility and the fabric doesn't drag around your body, it moves with your body.

Now with this armhole cut, not only could escape with ease, I also have a chance of winning the fight that might ensue on the top o the train car. I wouldn't have to remove my jacket. It would move with me and I'd look less disheveled in the end.

Company Update

2010-08-09T04:16:00.000-07:00

Some writings I need to clean up and post.

Fit and the Human Anatomy

Comfort and Dress Shoes
How much abuse should a suit be able to take?
What's really timeless in menswear, and what takes you over the edge into costume?

Keep your fingers crossed if you are interested, and I'll keep my fingers pounding as I find all the information that makes those articles truly informational.

But first, updates.

I put out a hat last year that augmented my companies retail lineup. Selling custom clothes is fun yes, but what's really fun is when you can outfit a man from head to toe in a balanced looking outfit. And everyman that exposes himself to the sun should, unless going to the beach for a head to toe tan, wear a hat.

There are a lot of hats on the market right now, some good some bad. I wanted to put something out there that was just a little bit better than any mass produced hat you can find on the shelf of your local haberdasher. A hat that was balanced to the face that didn't look too retro or too costumey. A hat that was just a hat that went well with a nicely tailored suit.

The MD-1 Phantom Gray fedora was a success and I'm doing more, yet this time I'm going to upgrade the quality of the fur felt. They will be in another limited run just like the originals, but they will be in a completely new color that I will showcase here when the prototype is available for photographing. As with the original MD-1, I'll be taking pre sale orders when I've settled on the prototypes specs and know my manufacturer can do it without any hiccups.

Phantom Gray MD-1

MD-1 specs for upcoming run
100 percent beaver felt for flexibility and durability in the elements
Roan Leather sweatband for soft comfort that molds to your head
Satin lining to protect the felt from oils or hair goo you may use

I'll release the price of the upgraded MD-1 when they are available.

Spats. That's right I said spats. The kind you button over your shoes. There aren't enough companies in the world making them and when A client asked me if MDA could make him a pair I said of course. They are now part of the lineup, and when one of our tailors comes to your town all you'll need is an ankle measurement and your shoes size on hand to place an order. Since they are custom, the price is around $130.00 at the moment, they are hand cut and tailor made.

Here is one for a left shoe.

MDA Spats

Isn't it beautiful?

Now the suits. I've been hunting for heavier weight wools like those used in the 1930s and 40s. Cloth you can abuse without really worrying about damaging it too much. Not tweeds, but regular suiting that wrinkles little and can take a tumble so you're ready to show off your chalk stripes at the business meeting the next morning. As you know, I'm all about a suit that you can wear doing just about anything, and that starts with the cloth. More on that in the next Company Update.

There is a new schedule of where you can be measured across the US over the next few months. I'll be adding images of clients in their custom designs so you can see how smashing a well tailored suit can look when it's made to your anatomy without compromise.

Matt Deckard
www.mattdeckard.com

Ask Andy and the Belt Back

2010-03-20T02:23:00.000-07:00

Tailoring isn't just fashion and draping goods over a human form, it's anatomy and knowing how to make the wearer feel as though they have nothing holding him or her back.

Which leads me to Andy's new belted back bi-swing jacket. Made inside and out like those of the old days.

Got to catch up with author Andy Gilchrist of www.askandyaboutclothes.com before he headed off to New York. Thankfully I was able to get some pics of his bespoke Matt Deckard Apparel sports jacket over lunch at Cole's French Dip in Downtown LA.

Andy asked Matt Deckard Apparel to make him a sports jacket that could take him anywhere, meaning from the countryside to the modern boardroom and then out for a night on the town.

Andy's Bespoke Sport Jacket
Three button front with tab collar for full closure at the throat if desired.
Button through box pleated pockets for carrying any daily needs.
Belted back for waist suppression detail (always looks cool).
Bi-swing back for complete ease of movement, after-all, the jackets for complete functionality... can be taken hunting or to the office without a qualm.

Very classic Hollywood in style, harking back to the days when the stars were as tailored as they were talented.

Dave Vanian's suit

2009-11-14T13:57:00.000-08:00

I had a great time hanging out with Dave in the recording studio while he was scoring the soundtrack for the movie The Perfect Sleep www.theperfectsleep.com, the music is Vicious!

I went with a more dramatic styling, very old Hollywood with a British sensibility.

Dave Vanian of the punk band The Damned wearing his Matt Deckard custom designed three-piece suit.

Plaid with a purple windowpane.

2 button jacket both to close (meaning no cutaway).

Wide peak lapel and belted action back.

6 button 4 pocket vest with hidden internal pocket.

High waist Hollywood waist trouser cut full with 2 inch cuffs.

Strawfut

2009-09-16T21:59:00.000-07:00

May be a bit long… so if you do want to read it you might also want to grab some popcorn.

They’re an older pair of shoes, probably from the 1950s going by the logo inside. I have a lot of friends that wear vintage shoes, they were made in a day when men wore leather soles as he de facto standard, and they are always a safe bet when it comes to buying quality on a budget.

Because of the turn toward sneakers over the last 40 years, the leather soled shoe industry hasn’t really faired well, yet I can’t get past the nostalgia of a leather sole. Nothing is better for dancing (and I dance at the drop of a hat), and they tend to give you about 20 times more wear than any rubber soled shoe, that can't be resoled, on the market.

With the decline of the leather sole there have remained two stalwart companies that have fought the trend by continuing to mass-produce well made dress shoes in the US. One of those is Alden and the other is Allen Edmonds.

Now to the point...

The “Strawfut” A good breathable summer shoe.

I received these shoes in a dilapidated and torn state. I like them for several reasons, one of the biggest is because they are Allen Edmonds. I have a closet full of Allen Edmonds -- modern Allen Edmonds. When the chance arose to own a vintage pair, a pair that looked pretty unique… well I couldn’t turn it down.

Going by the older style Allen Edmonds logo inside I'd guessed they were from the 1950s (yet I could be wrong) and a time when the company made a summer shoe that could breathe. Recent summer models are completely lined in leather which tends to defeat the purpose of having a woven leather or fabric in the construction. These were truly open to the air and functionally cool to wear. The leather lining is in the heel and the toe and in between is an open breathing nylon mesh.

The last (wooden form on which shoe was shaped) used has a very wide forefoot and narrow heel, oddly good for my foot since I have very hobbit proportioned feet, wide in front and narrow in the heel. I tend to have a lot of tight fitting shoes that don’t grip my heel, so when I find a shoe that does I buy it, and vintage shoes tend to favor my footshape.

Most Allen Edmonds lasts today are much narrower in the toe box when compared to the "Strawfut" which obviously makes me wish they still used the last on which it was made. Unfortunately I recently heard that Allen Edmonds had a fire several years back that destroyed many of their old lasts, so remaking them (if they had the inclination) might be an impossibility. I do wish however that they would return these beauties to their lineup if only for the sake of having a breathable and extremely comfortable flexible shoe.

Ask Andy and AE's CEO

After a while of having them sit in my closet next to my wearable shoes I started thinking about getting the tear in the heel fixed, but first I wanted to post them on Andy Gilchrest’’s clothing website AskAndy.com to see what other people thought of the style.

Fortunately, the CEO of Allen Edmonds frequents the site, saw the shoes and sent me a message asking if I’d send them in so he and the head of manufacturing could see the shoes firsthand to study the design and refurbish the shoe for me. I agreed and sent them to him direct. Soon after he gave me a ring and I was on the phone with Paul (the CEO) and Jim (the VP of operations). We talked about the style. Why the Allen Edmonds used the nylon mesh instead of a natural material back then (a natural material would have become brittle and have worn out by now), if they could fix the tear in the heel and whether or not they should be resoled.

A few weeks later the shoes came back. As soon as they were in the door they went on my feet (what do you want? I was in a rush and needed a snazzy pair of wingtips for going out), so the pics of the refurbishment had to wait. While I was out, I finally got to feel how the shoes were on my feet. With their straw mesh they breath like no other shoe I own, yet look and wear like a regular dress shoe. They also win extremely high points for being flexible beyond any shoe I’ve ever worn.

Allen Edmonds repaired the tear in the back of the upper, they replaced the heel and gave the leather a new lease on life, and gave me a shoe that I’ll covet and maybe wear sparingly seeing that I tend to treat my dress shoes like most people treat jeans.

I’d like to thank Paul and Jim at Allen Edmonds for returning these in great shape, and let them know as well that I’m wearing them while I write this and that they are ready to hit a dance floor in Los Angeles following this last word.

Men's underwear basics

2009-07-20T15:04:00.000-07:00

Underwear has not always been a fascination for women and how they want their bodies to appear. There was a time in the world when men… real men took pride in their figure to the point that they would buy underwear that helped improve the look of their physique. As in the way many ladies corset and belly shapers have gone out of fashion, men’s underwear has taken a turn for the drab with choices being limited to pretty much the bare necessities of boxers or briefs or boxer briefs (my preference).

As my belly gets slimmer there are a few things I’d like to share about men’s underwear.

1. With modern underwear, tuck the undershirt into the undershorts.
This keeps the dress shirt from being dragged out by the undershirt and gives a cleaner appearance.

2. For the heavier men… wear the undershorts below the overlapping belly and the trousers over the belly and at your natural waste. This takes some of the pressure off your wasteband and keeps the undershorts from riding up even higher and causing discomfort.

3. When they change color, buy new underwear... I have been on too many business trips where the guy in the room with me has on a pair that was probably white to begin with though changed color over time... Ladies, if this is your guy... buy him some new cotton.

In many cases the women have it easy... they know where to go when they want a garment that makes them look as though they have lost 5 pounds... For men, in the year 2006 you have to do an in depth google search that may yield nothing you'd touch with a 10 foot pole.

Deckard in London

2009-06-24T02:27:00.000-07:00

Alltogether the trip was fantastic. I didn't get to see many of the sights I wanted though I was there on business putting my time into a trade show and helping with interviews of tailors. Some of the information is quite interesting. Such as how the whipcords of today wear away unlike the whipcords of yesteryear. One of the tailors was wearing a suit made of whipcord and explaind how he had worn through a pair of trousers and showed me where the seat of his jacket was already pilling up. He also explained that they no longer make the materials as they used to as the fibers being used for the modern wools they get are very fine and break down when even made into whipcords or tweeds. Though those are the rougher fabrics and tend to wear faster than a good twill or mill finished worsted... it's nice to know i'm not insane when i say they don't make the fabric like it used to be made. I questioned him about the heavy weight fabrics and he agreed that even the heavier denser fabrics they make today are not as hard and tend to stretch and show wear faster . I learned alot about body fit and a few measurements that were used for tailoring general suits though are held for the most intricate of jackets such as one that was at Henry Poole being made for the Sherriff of Cheshire. The armholes were tight circles and the jacket was made to give the wearer shape. the tailor explained that Their current suits don't require as much fit or the materials can't give the shape as they used to so they are focussing more on drape. Unlike many US tailors and shopkeeps i've met, these UK chaps are disenchanted with the modern super light threads.

Even saw some vintage material. Mohair with a metalic stripe... they don't make those anymore.

Anywho I saw alot, the London Lounge members were quite a hoot and I'd like to thank them for the compliments on my hat pics and wish they would post some of their own.

As for the local London Fedora Lounge Members... It was wonderful meeting you all. I wish we could have spent more time together. Next time I come it must be a straight social visit. I needed to see those vintage shops. Paddy you're a well spoken man.

Yes I look tired in the pic.

My new girlfriend.

Sock it to me?

2009-03-04T19:47:00.000-08:00

Socks for living in, socks that look good absorb well and just plain feel damn good on your feet. Go wool blend all the way in a thicker weave than the traditional dress sock you find at the local department store.

I go dancing nearly daily and my feet take a pounding. Cotton socks no matter how soft or specially made, no matter what cotton plant they came from or how treated in some odd way or another; cotton socks always end up sticking to my feet in some odd way, chafing my skin against the sidewalls of my shoes and leaving me cold footed at the end of the day, soggy and adjusting how they lie in my shoes.

Cotton poly blend socks are better, sometimes by a lot and sometimes by a little. They are often too thin to take the beating that comes between the leather and my toes yet when given the choice between cotton and poly socks... in this case Poly blend socks with a bit of spandex wins hands down.
Since those aren't the best feel to my feet either, when I can find them and they are priced right and in a great style I head for something made with a little more thickness than the traditional dress sock you find at the mall.

Wool blended, better at wicking moisture and plenty of styles to choose from, wool blend socks take the cake whether running a conference or running on a treadmill for 30 minutes. I wear them in the summer.

So who is the best?

I used to swear by Ralph Lauren's winter wool socks. Awesome patterns and they just felt amazing. I'd go to the outlet in Camarillo where a gal would keep a bin handy whenever I came over, just to show me the ones that didn't sell for the season. I'd get them for a dollar a pair and that was marked down from 20 to 15 dollars at times. Argyles and stripes that looked like they came from the old Interwoven sock ads from the 30s.

But they aren't the best... best for designs yes, but when it comes to feeling on the feet... it's Robert Talbott socks for the win.

#1 Robert Talbott Socks

Made in Italy and they are costly... around 35 bucks a pair unless of course you are lucky enough to find them at Burlington coat factory for a song. The patterns are fine, stripes argyles and in the right looking weave to be confused with vintage socks. They feel great and last forever.

#2 Ralph Lauren socks

Made in China and they are costly as well. Around 15 to 20 bucks a pair. I'd wear them continuously and are a close runner up for the feel of Robert Talbott socks.. I think they just wear out a bit faster than the Robert Talbott socks and they tend to have a lower wool content.

#3 Brooks Brothers socks

Made in China. Only the thicker ones they make with wool. They have some good designs yet they fall down too easily (and I hate sock garters). You can really feel the nylon in these ones and if they would ad a little spandex that might make a big difference. I think it's the blend and the thickness of the weave being thinner... but I tend to leave them behind regardless of the price... which is sometimes around 12 to 15 dollars. I feel more of the plastic in Brooks Brothers socks. Less cushion and absorption. They also are shorter than the competition, so that's another draw back.

As for Gold Toe and Pantherella? Calvin klien has a better feeling weight to their socks with a seam that can't be felt. I just think Pantherella is too thin and I'm not too into their designs

I hear-tell Smartwool is going into dress socks... I'll see what that's all about soon enough.

Hardly Stepping Softly

2008-12-23T17:24:00.000-08:00

I have wickedly awkward feet. It’s not that they have a funny shape or a pungent odor (at least I haven’t had any recent complaints), it’s that they are ultra-sensitive to the shoes I am wearing. If my feet are not comfortable I can’t go more than a few steps without giving up and heading toward a softer shoe. It’s my lot in life. I have unusually soft skin for a man and, by extension, unusually soft feet. It is because of this genetic flaw (I think it is, but the ladies say it isn’t), that I’m overly picky about the shoes I wear.

   I searched high and low and high till I found the dress shoes that not only fit the shape of my foot but allowed me to comfortably dance through the night. Expensive. Cheap. I didn’t care - as long as they had leather soles for doing the lindy hop and a rubber heel for a bit of traction.

   When it came to athletic shoes I had the same problem finding the right pair, because, with me, dress shoes were always the priority. After all, I am a man about town. Well, now came the time when my priorities changed. I was sitting pretty with my career and decided it was high time I started working out. No more ordering pizza or heading out to grab the steak for lunch. No more getting home, hitting the couch, and mesmerizing myself with a book or a show. I was ready to live life with a heart pumping and I needed to escape the pounds I built up from having the comfortable money flow. But where to start? There were a pair of sneakers in the closet but they just didn’t fit the bill. I mean, they had no style and… Well, if I was going to hit the pavement running, I could have just gone out looking like I stopped by the local Wal-Mart, grabbing the first thing I saw, but I never like the first thing I see; I like what is me. I want what fits my bill.
   So I decided to get the shoes that looked the least evil and those were the classic black pair of Chuck Taylor shoes with the white laces. Picking them up, I asked ‘Who’s Chuck Taylor, and does anyone ever ask that question?!?’ Well I do! I need to know what I’m getting into, and if I’m going to buy a sport shoe, I better know what I’m buying, so… Who’s Chuck Taylor? What are plimsoles? Who is Marquis Converse? How are Keds and US Rubber connected? How did a badminton star get a shoe named after him (Jack Purcell)? On and on, I looked into the history of the rubbery soft shoe, trying to find out how they came about, how they became the de facto standard for shoe wearers (even dress shoes are going rubber) and how they became so ugly. Years ago, BF Goodrich and Keds manufactured shoes that made you look like you were about to wrestle a snake or box a kangaroo - they were shoes that said 'I’m an athlete in soft shoe comfort’ - but currently we have the New Balance shoe with… Well, perhaps they are a bit more comfortable, but with that big ‘N’ on the side they certainly don’t have the style of those old shoes. No style at all. And, while we’re on that topic of style, who was Chuck? Well, just to cover that base, he was a basketball player who helped Converse redesign its basketball shoe into what it is today. I remember older versions having a bit of a thicker canvas and the laces being beefier, but that was when they were manufactured in the U.S. rather than China. Despite the material changes, the iconic design hasn’t, but I have to admit that great design still doesn’t help my feet. The simple truth is Chuck Taylor’s hurt. No arch support, synthetic foam insole, and they’re just plain uncomfortable. So I was stuck with the ugly modern looking shoes for my workouts. Yeah, I had the grey sweats and the cool workout shirt that looked like something a 1930s college coach would have worn, and I periodically sport a Brooklyn Dodgers cap during a jog, but every time I looked down, I kept thinking the same thing: my shoes were ugly as sin.

   Then I saw them.

   I was touring websites for shoes and I ran across a company called Baggins in Canada, and while looking at all the styles of painful Chucks I saw something that not only grabbed my eye and said, ‘You need me Matt Deckard,’ but… Well, actually that’s it, that’s what it actually said. Baggins had listed on their page a 1946 reproduction Converse Chuck Taylor All Star. They were different. The rubber on the front was a big bumper, the heel swooped in to hug the ankle, the color, the design… they looked rad and I needed a pair. I jumped on the phone and ordered two pair. One high top pair and a low top pair, both in the parchment color. They were very different from the standard offering. The souls were softer, the cotton was thicker, the quality was better. They cost a bit more than the regular Chucks, but it was worth the expense - piping around the tongue and thick cotton laces – and, best of all, they were comfortable. Perhaps not as comfortable as the digital era ugliness you find on your common walker but they didn’t leave my feet in pain and they looked like shoes for playing basketball. They looked like shoes for working out in a real gym with medicine balls and a boxing ring in the middle, and, in the end, that’s what really matters once you get past the fit part.

   As I couldn’t work out in dress shoes, I had turned into a rubber soul convert out of necessity. Along with the reproduction Chucks, I found a few other brands bringing back their classics as well. Keds reproduced the 1930s Triumph model for the movie The Aviator (Howard Hughes often sported them) and they also reproduced their original boxing shoes. New Balance bought out and re-released P.F. Flyers as a brand. Once famous for their run faster, jump higher campaign, you can once again feel what Posture Foundation is all about and see the variety there was in color and style back when canvas and rubber shoes were taking over. P.F. Flyers also re-released a new favorite shoe of mine called the Ringside. A shoe composed of cotton, leather, and rubber, it looks like a two-tone wingtip with the construction of a 1930s sneaker. They wear as spectacular as they look and it makes you wonder how they ever went out of production.

   Anywho… I have my shoes, and I’m glad to report I can work out in comfort. Now to switch into the leather soles and hit the town.

Inside detail of Converse 1946 reproduction.
Period accurate footbed, tongue detail and
candy-stripe lining.

Keds Title-Bout Hi-top