tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-29655420005401130272024-02-01T20:26:18.203-08:00Deckard's GuideMenswear Adventure and NightlifeMatt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.comBlogger65125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-37179757839760215002017-11-02T16:02:00.001-07:002017-11-02T16:15:13.977-07:00Placement and proportions for the belt back suit<div style="background-color: white; color: #383838; font-family: Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: 19px; margin-bottom: 0.875em;">
This one comes as more of a demand from a few friends who needed some answers ASAP. So here we go, and I’ll add more information as I update this over the next few days.</div>
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I thought I’d post this seeing as changes are being made to some modern designs using the knowledge I’ve shared, and mainly as a request that I explain the logic of belted backs in general. In the interest of repros we have made or we buy being right, I think it’s best to just show what I know and have seen to everyone.</div>
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Talking to a couple tailors I learned a lot more about armholes and body fit from when I began my quest to have a suit that fits well enough to make me feel as though I’m wearing pyjamas. I do like the roundtables in New York thanks to a friend of mine. Now to the demanded info!</div>
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The half belted back and it’s placement.</div>
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When you put a belt on a jacket, the front and back of the belt is level. Usually it’s going to be directly at the wearers true waist. There have been dropped waist version in the 1910s and 1920s, and in the 1930s you’ll see the belts put on jacket more so at the true natural waist of the wearer.</div>
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Rather than showing exploded drawings of suit pieces, I’ll show you styles on people and hopefully make clear the logic behind the belting.</div>
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A belt all the way around the jacket clearly defines where the waist of the wearer is front and back. If there is a center button at the waist of the jacket, the button can often go through the button on a norfolk jacket that has a cloth belt, or like in the military stylings, the belt can be directly below. the center button but is still showcasing a uniform waistband around the jacket.</div>
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<img alt="Matt Deckard Belt Back Norfolk.jpg" class="alignnone wp-image-293" data-attachment-id="293" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Matt Deckard Belt Back Norfolk" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-norfolk.jpg?w=727" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-norfolk.jpg?w=213" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-norfolk.jpg" data-orig-size="1280,1804" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/matt-deckard-belt-back-norfolk/" height="310" sizes="(max-width: 220px) 100vw, 220px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-norfolk.jpg?w=220&h=310" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-norfolk.jpg?w=220&h=310 220w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-norfolk.jpg?w=440&h=620 440w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-norfolk.jpg?w=106&h=150 106w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-norfolk.jpg?w=213&h=300 213w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" width="220" /><img alt="Jimmy Stuart Belt Back Matt Deckard.jpg" class="alignnone wp-image-287" data-attachment-id="287" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"\u00a9 courtesy of the French Air Force.","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Jimmy Stuart Belt Back Matt Deckard" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/jimmy-stuart-belt-back-matt-deckard.jpg?w=276&h=310?w=634" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/jimmy-stuart-belt-back-matt-deckard.jpg?w=276&h=310?w=268" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/jimmy-stuart-belt-back-matt-deckard.jpg?w=276&h=310" data-orig-size="634,711" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/jimmy-stuart-belt-back-matt-deckard/" height="310" sizes="(max-width: 276px) 100vw, 276px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/jimmy-stuart-belt-back-matt-deckard.jpg?w=276&h=310" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/jimmy-stuart-belt-back-matt-deckard.jpg?w=276&h=310 276w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/jimmy-stuart-belt-back-matt-deckard.jpg?w=552&h=620 552w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/jimmy-stuart-belt-back-matt-deckard.jpg?w=134&h=150 134w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/jimmy-stuart-belt-back-matt-deckard.jpg?w=268&h=300 268w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" width="276" /><img alt="Prince-Philip-in-Norfolk-Jacket-in-1952.jpg" class="alignnone wp-image-280" data-attachment-id="280" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Prince-Philip-in-Norfolk-Jacket-in-1952" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/prince-philip-in-norfolk-jacket-in-1952.jpg?w=208&h=379?w=491" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/prince-philip-in-norfolk-jacket-in-1952.jpg?w=208&h=379?w=165" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/prince-philip-in-norfolk-jacket-in-1952.jpg?w=208&h=379" data-orig-size="491,894" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/prince-philip-in-norfolk-jacket-in-1952/" height="379" sizes="(max-width: 208px) 100vw, 208px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/prince-philip-in-norfolk-jacket-in-1952.jpg?w=208&h=379" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/prince-philip-in-norfolk-jacket-in-1952.jpg?w=208&h=379 208w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/prince-philip-in-norfolk-jacket-in-1952.jpg?w=416&h=758 416w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/prince-philip-in-norfolk-jacket-in-1952.jpg?w=82&h=150 82w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/prince-philip-in-norfolk-jacket-in-1952.jpg?w=165&h=300 165w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" width="208" /><img alt="Norfolk_jacket_history_at_Keikari_dot_com.jpg" class="alignnone wp-image-283" data-attachment-id="283" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"1"}" data-image-title="Norfolk_jacket_history_at_Keikari_dot_com" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/norfolk_jacket_history_at_keikari_dot_com.jpg?w=292&h=377?w=426" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/norfolk_jacket_history_at_keikari_dot_com.jpg?w=292&h=377?w=232" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/norfolk_jacket_history_at_keikari_dot_com.jpg?w=292&h=377" data-orig-size="426,550" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/norfolk_jacket_history_at_keikari_dot_com/" height="377" sizes="(max-width: 292px) 100vw, 292px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/norfolk_jacket_history_at_keikari_dot_com.jpg?w=292&h=377" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/norfolk_jacket_history_at_keikari_dot_com.jpg?w=292&h=377 292w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/norfolk_jacket_history_at_keikari_dot_com.jpg?w=116&h=150 116w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/norfolk_jacket_history_at_keikari_dot_com.jpg?w=232&h=300 232w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/norfolk_jacket_history_at_keikari_dot_com.jpg 426w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" width="292" /></div>
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<img alt="Matt Deckard 1920 Norfolk Belted suit.jpg" class="alignnone wp-image-305" data-attachment-id="305" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Matt Deckard 1920 Norfolk Belted suit" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-1920-norfolk-belted-suit.jpg?w=277&h=328?w=564" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-1920-norfolk-belted-suit.jpg?w=277&h=328?w=253" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-1920-norfolk-belted-suit.jpg?w=277&h=328" data-orig-size="564,669" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/matt-deckard-1920-norfolk-belted-suit/" height="328" sizes="(max-width: 277px) 100vw, 277px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-1920-norfolk-belted-suit.jpg?w=277&h=328" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-1920-norfolk-belted-suit.jpg?w=277&h=328 277w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-1920-norfolk-belted-suit.jpg?w=554&h=656 554w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-1920-norfolk-belted-suit.jpg?w=126&h=150 126w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-1920-norfolk-belted-suit.jpg?w=253&h=300 253w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" width="277" /><img alt="Norfolk Suit Matt Deckard.jpg" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-309" data-attachment-id="309" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Norfolk Suit Matt Deckard" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/norfolk-suit-matt-deckard.jpg?w=836" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/norfolk-suit-matt-deckard.jpg?w=279" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/norfolk-suit-matt-deckard.jpg" data-orig-size="836,900" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/norfolk-suit-matt-deckard/" height="314" sizes="(max-width: 292px) 100vw, 292px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/norfolk-suit-matt-deckard.jpg?w=292" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/norfolk-suit-matt-deckard.jpg?w=292 292w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/norfolk-suit-matt-deckard.jpg?w=584 584w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/norfolk-suit-matt-deckard.jpg?w=139 139w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/norfolk-suit-matt-deckard.jpg?w=279 279w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" width="292" /></div>
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There are examples of where the belt is actually dropped lower than the actual waist, but I’ve seen that it’s Proportional because the trouser have a lower waist and it’s the look of a trend of the time. — I’ll add photos of that shortly.</div>
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There are reasons to break the rule of where to put the belt when it’s going on the back of a jacket, but I’ve found if you do this, it’s for aesthetics rather than function.</div>
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The Jacket below has a center button defining the waist in the front but the rear belt is a bit lower than where the center button is placed. You can see the discrepancy in the waist placement by looking at the side pockets.</div>
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I’ve seen this mostly done on new models as I think the designers are separating the placement of the jacket’s front and back waistline, placing the belt nearer to where modern low waisted trowsers haver their waistling.</div>
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When paired with an action back, or even without, moving while wearing a jacket where the rear waistline is lower than the front waistline causes the belt to raise and sometimes hang higher or catch higher on the individual and bunch up the jack of the jacket.</div>
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<img alt="96ba5b9c368ced2506962d7a271a4074--tweed-suits-tweed-sport-coat.jpg" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-312" data-attachment-id="312" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="96ba5b9c368ced2506962d7a271a4074–tweed-suits-tweed-sport-coat" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/96ba5b9c368ced2506962d7a271a4074-tweed-suits-tweed-sport-coat.jpg?w=1100?w=236" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/96ba5b9c368ced2506962d7a271a4074-tweed-suits-tweed-sport-coat.jpg?w=1100?w=225" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/96ba5b9c368ced2506962d7a271a4074-tweed-suits-tweed-sport-coat.jpg?w=1100" data-orig-size="236,314" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/96ba5b9c368ced2506962d7a271a4074-tweed-suits-tweed-sport-coat/" sizes="(max-width: 236px) 100vw, 236px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/96ba5b9c368ced2506962d7a271a4074-tweed-suits-tweed-sport-coat.jpg?w=1100" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/96ba5b9c368ced2506962d7a271a4074-tweed-suits-tweed-sport-coat.jpg 236w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/96ba5b9c368ced2506962d7a271a4074-tweed-suits-tweed-sport-coat.jpg?w=113 113w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" /><img alt="ecdf2f3c3f73a1e2c4f92a0a1a49ff69.jpg" class="alignnone wp-image-319" data-attachment-id="319" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"1"}" data-image-title="ecdf2f3c3f73a1e2c4f92a0a1a49ff69" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/ecdf2f3c3f73a1e2c4f92a0a1a49ff692.jpg?w=282&h=314?w=778" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/ecdf2f3c3f73a1e2c4f92a0a1a49ff692.jpg?w=282&h=314?w=269" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/ecdf2f3c3f73a1e2c4f92a0a1a49ff692.jpg?w=282&h=314" data-orig-size="778,867" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/ecdf2f3c3f73a1e2c4f92a0a1a49ff69-3/" height="314" sizes="(max-width: 282px) 100vw, 282px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/ecdf2f3c3f73a1e2c4f92a0a1a49ff692.jpg?w=282&h=314" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/ecdf2f3c3f73a1e2c4f92a0a1a49ff692.jpg?w=282&h=314 282w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/ecdf2f3c3f73a1e2c4f92a0a1a49ff692.jpg?w=564&h=628 564w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/ecdf2f3c3f73a1e2c4f92a0a1a49ff692.jpg?w=135&h=150 135w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/ecdf2f3c3f73a1e2c4f92a0a1a49ff692.jpg?w=269&h=300 269w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" width="282" /></div>
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There are also belted jackets where there is no center button placement, commonly these jackets are made to have both front buttons fastened and the belt in the rear is between the two buttons in the front.</div>
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When it came to me working to get proportions and placement correct, I went on a binge of not just tailoring books, but evidence on screen just to see action belt backs in action.</div>
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Below are several images from the 1934 Movie Transatlantic-Merry-Go-Round. Note again that the top seam of the belt is placed exactly where the button placement in the front lies. I’ve measured a few three button suits from the 1930s and when I wanted my own made, I went with that logic to keep my action backs functioning properly.</div>
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<img alt="18671026_10154624764233811_8920505711979992029_n.jpg" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-341" data-attachment-id="341" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="18671026_10154624764233811_8920505711979992029_n" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18671026_10154624764233811_8920505711979992029_n.jpg?w=1100?w=281" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18671026_10154624764233811_8920505711979992029_n.jpg?w=1100?w=209" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18671026_10154624764233811_8920505711979992029_n.jpg?w=1100" data-orig-size="281,404" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/18671026_10154624764233811_8920505711979992029_n/" sizes="(max-width: 281px) 100vw, 281px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18671026_10154624764233811_8920505711979992029_n.jpg?w=1100" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18671026_10154624764233811_8920505711979992029_n.jpg 281w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18671026_10154624764233811_8920505711979992029_n.jpg?w=104 104w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" /><img alt="18581803_10154624764983811_4365359757100046979_n.jpg" class="alignnone wp-image-340" data-attachment-id="340" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="18581803_10154624764983811_4365359757100046979_n" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18581803_10154624764983811_4365359757100046979_n.jpg?w=384&h=347?w=960" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18581803_10154624764983811_4365359757100046979_n.jpg?w=384&h=347?w=300" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18581803_10154624764983811_4365359757100046979_n.jpg?w=384&h=347" data-orig-size="960,868" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/18581803_10154624764983811_4365359757100046979_n/" height="347" sizes="(max-width: 384px) 100vw, 384px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18581803_10154624764983811_4365359757100046979_n.jpg?w=384&h=347" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18581803_10154624764983811_4365359757100046979_n.jpg?w=384&h=347 384w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18581803_10154624764983811_4365359757100046979_n.jpg?w=768&h=694 768w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18581803_10154624764983811_4365359757100046979_n.jpg?w=150&h=136 150w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18581803_10154624764983811_4365359757100046979_n.jpg?w=300&h=271 300w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" width="384" /><img alt="18664307_10154624768518811_6263274554890359530_n.jpg" class="alignnone wp-image-338" data-attachment-id="338" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="18664307_10154624768518811_6263274554890359530_n" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18664307_10154624768518811_6263274554890359530_n1.jpg?w=296&h=585?w=446" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18664307_10154624768518811_6263274554890359530_n1.jpg?w=296&h=585?w=152" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18664307_10154624768518811_6263274554890359530_n1.jpg?w=296&h=585" data-orig-size="446,882" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/18664307_10154624768518811_6263274554890359530_n-2/" height="585" sizes="(max-width: 296px) 100vw, 296px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18664307_10154624768518811_6263274554890359530_n1.jpg?w=296&h=585" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18664307_10154624768518811_6263274554890359530_n1.jpg?w=296&h=585 296w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18664307_10154624768518811_6263274554890359530_n1.jpg?w=76&h=150 76w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18664307_10154624768518811_6263274554890359530_n1.jpg?w=152&h=300 152w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/18664307_10154624768518811_6263274554890359530_n1.jpg 446w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" width="296" /></div>
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Some Images from 1933 The Clark Gable movie, Dancing Lady. I love this suit! If you watch the movie, the belt is exaclty below where the center button placement of the front lies.</div>
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<img alt="Matt Deckard Belt Back suit DL.jpg" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-380" data-attachment-id="380" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Matt Deckard Belt Back suit DL" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl1.jpg?w=1100?w=291" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl1.jpg?w=1100?w=119" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl1.jpg?w=1100" data-orig-size="291,734" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl-2/" sizes="(max-width: 291px) 100vw, 291px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl1.jpg?w=1100" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl1.jpg 291w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl1.jpg?w=59 59w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" /><img alt="Matt Deckard Belt Back suit DL2.jpg" class="alignnone wp-image-382" data-attachment-id="382" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Matt Deckard Belt Back suit DL2" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl23.jpg?w=314&h=576?w=426" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl23.jpg?w=314&h=576?w=164" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl23.jpg?w=314&h=576" data-orig-size="426,781" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl2-4/" height="576" sizes="(max-width: 314px) 100vw, 314px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl23.jpg?w=314&h=576" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl23.jpg?w=314&h=576 314w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl23.jpg?w=82&h=150 82w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl23.jpg?w=164&h=300 164w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-suit-dl23.jpg 426w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" width="314" /></div>
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<img alt="Matt Deckard Belt Back Jacket DL.jpg" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-383" data-attachment-id="383" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="Matt Deckard Belt Back Jacket DL" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-jacket-dl1.jpg?w=1100?w=729" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-jacket-dl1.jpg?w=1100?w=300" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-jacket-dl1.jpg?w=1100" data-orig-size="729,706" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/matt-deckard-belt-back-jacket-dl-2/" sizes="(max-width: 729px) 100vw, 729px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-jacket-dl1.jpg?w=1100" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-jacket-dl1.jpg 729w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-jacket-dl1.jpg?w=150 150w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/matt-deckard-belt-back-jacket-dl1.jpg?w=300 300w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" /></div>
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Belted back Double Breasted jacket with four buttons. The two top buttons sit at the wearer’s natural waistline. The seam of the belt in the back, when measured from the bottom of the hem up, is at the same height as the top buttons stance.</div>
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<img alt="22894399_10155086582388811_2639868622706074496_n.jpg" class="alignnone size-full wp-image-385" data-attachment-id="385" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="22894399_10155086582388811_2639868622706074496_n" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/22894399_10155086582388811_2639868622706074496_n.jpg?w=1100?w=960" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/22894399_10155086582388811_2639868622706074496_n.jpg?w=1100?w=300" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/22894399_10155086582388811_2639868622706074496_n.jpg?w=1100" data-orig-size="960,718" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/22894399_10155086582388811_2639868622706074496_n/" sizes="(max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/22894399_10155086582388811_2639868622706074496_n.jpg?w=1100" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/22894399_10155086582388811_2639868622706074496_n.jpg 960w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/22894399_10155086582388811_2639868622706074496_n.jpg?w=150 150w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/22894399_10155086582388811_2639868622706074496_n.jpg?w=300 300w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/22894399_10155086582388811_2639868622706074496_n.jpg?w=768 768w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" /></div>
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I went with a 2 inch belt and the yoke is not too large, but it was a science to get the proportions correct on that as well. Too wide and it’s very 1970s looking. Too narrow and it looks like a shoestring paisted to the back.</div>
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<span class="embed-youtube" style="display: block; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="true" class="youtube-player" data-height="649" data-ratio="0.59" data-width="1100" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3I5e91X9Zik?version=3&rel=1&fs=1&autohide=2&showsearch=0&showinfo=1&iv_load_policy=1&wmode=transparent" style="border-style: initial; border-width: 0px; display: block; height: 436.6px; margin: 0px; max-width: 100%; width: 740px;" type="text/html"></iframe></span></div>
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<img alt="542469_10150882754874718_1318328395_n-1.jpg" class="alignnone wp-image-350" data-attachment-id="350" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="542469_10150882754874718_1318328395_n-1" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/542469_10150882754874718_1318328395_n-1.jpg?w=267&h=399?w=600" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/542469_10150882754874718_1318328395_n-1.jpg?w=267&h=399?w=201" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/542469_10150882754874718_1318328395_n-1.jpg?w=267&h=399" data-orig-size="600,896" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/542469_10150882754874718_1318328395_n-1-2/" height="399" sizes="(max-width: 267px) 100vw, 267px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/542469_10150882754874718_1318328395_n-1.jpg?w=267&h=399" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/542469_10150882754874718_1318328395_n-1.jpg?w=267&h=399 267w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/542469_10150882754874718_1318328395_n-1.jpg?w=534&h=798 534w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/542469_10150882754874718_1318328395_n-1.jpg?w=100&h=150 100w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/542469_10150882754874718_1318328395_n-1.jpg?w=201&h=300 201w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; outline: 0px; vertical-align: middle;" width="267" /><img alt="181865_10150882753799718_357657424_n.jpg" class="alignnone wp-image-349" data-attachment-id="349" data-comments-opened="1" data-image-description="" data-image-meta="{"aperture":"0","credit":"","camera":"","caption":"","created_timestamp":"0","copyright":"","focal_length":"0","iso":"0","shutter_speed":"0","title":"","orientation":"0"}" data-image-title="181865_10150882753799718_357657424_n" data-large-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/181865_10150882753799718_357657424_n.jpg?w=288&h=401?w=600" data-medium-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/181865_10150882753799718_357657424_n.jpg?w=288&h=401?w=215" data-orig-file="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/181865_10150882753799718_357657424_n.jpg?w=288&h=401" data-orig-size="600,836" data-permalink="https://deckardsguide.wordpress.com/2017/11/01/placement-and-proportions-for-the-belt-back-suit/181865_10150882753799718_357657424_n/" height="401" sizes="(max-width: 288px) 100vw, 288px" src="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/181865_10150882753799718_357657424_n.jpg?w=288&h=401" srcset="https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/181865_10150882753799718_357657424_n.jpg?w=288&h=401 288w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/181865_10150882753799718_357657424_n.jpg?w=576&h=802 576w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/181865_10150882753799718_357657424_n.jpg?w=108&h=150 108w, https://deckardsguide.files.wordpress.com/2017/11/181865_10150882753799718_357657424_n.jpg?w=215&h=300 215w" style="border-radius: 3px; border: 0px; height: auto; max-width: 100%; vertical-align: middle;" width="288" /></div>
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I’m going to continue editing this with more visuals as I have a lot written that I don’t think will become clear without the right imagery.</div>
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Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-53965148943942819162017-10-12T01:40:00.001-07:002017-10-12T01:40:04.184-07:00My mother was heavily involved in Girl Scouts, and she had a very active troop that would camp a lot and was quite focused on outdoors type skills. I always asked her why there weren't a lot of co boy scout girl scout activities and one of the biggest reasons she had was that the organizations didn't get along. In another year, the boy scouts allowing girls into the organization would be top story but at the moment there is way too much going on politically and with so many back to back disasters, but this is big news. Am I against it? No, not really... I never saw the girl scout organization having quite the focus BSA did as BSA always had the rock climbing and uniformity and... well, I learned CPR and got to canoe to islands and hiked for weeks on end, ice axed my way up massive hills in Yosemite and got to slide my way down. Most meetings were there to prepare me and the boys in my patrol and troop with seeing if we packed the right gear and had the right badges to trust that each member knew how to use the gear. I earned my Eagle Award knowing that it really meant I learned things that would take care of me and others through emergencies and through normal life. I've me many many girlscouts that exclaimed to me that they had the same oppertunity. I'm not dissapointed in Boy scouts opening their ranks to girls. I'm proud of the decision. #eaglescout #boyscouts #girlscoutsMatt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-67943842036211430962017-09-11T21:15:00.000-07:002017-09-12T00:25:56.687-07:00Menswear Repro Roundup (sans denim and more dressy)<div class="_1dwg _1w_m" style="font-family: inherit; padding: 12px 12px 0px;">
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I consider these Lifestyle brands and you should too. </div>
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As vintage wears down, we remake it the way it used to be made in hopes it comes out right.</div>
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Romance, Adventure, flared, nipped, bolder or subtler here and there… all the details of the past in the right order it's all in the eighth of an inch.</div>
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Reproducing the denim workwear has been well covered and done for a good 35 years now. </div>
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I used to hunt for vintage suits after seeing The Untouchables, Raiders of the Lost Ark and A River Runs Through it. The Three piece suits in those movies, how they were worn for everything from adventure to a steak dinner with red wine made me want to live in those wears, but the build of men's suitings changed so much that I couldn't find anything quite near what I saw in those movies interpreting the 1920s and 1930s or like the actual ones that survived till today that many of my friends were wearing daily. I had to have it made. Now, there are enough shops remaking vintage reproduction menswear that one could truly open a mall with vintage menswear shops alone. </div>
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This isn't to be confused with classic menswear, a lot of that isn't made the way it used to be. Only recently, even Brooks Brother brought back their unfused button down collar emulating the collar roll of the old classic that men depended on until the late 1960s. Menswear changes. The few that have started these shops below wanted something different than what many of the classic brands now offer of don't realize they no longer make because fashion and style and the environment have moved on. But the shops below not only fight on, they are growing in their variety of items and their presence in the market. </div>
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Even with dressy menswear like suits, we are at a point where there are a lot of options, and I’m quite happy about this has happened, and it’s happened quite recently. When I began dressing retro, I aimed for that 1930s look, inspired by the Untouchables and Indiana Jones, Ariver Runs Through it. I loved three-piece suits yet didn’t have the build to buy any suit off the rack. I had them made and I had to go through a disguising of tailors to find one that would make what I wanted how I wanted it made.</div>
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Now here is why I’m writing. I just want to showcase what’s out there now and maybe update this article with the details that the current repro makers out there are offering.</div>
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So Let’s begin with</div>
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<a href="http://www.oldfieldclothing.com/"><img border="0" height="60" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtaKkl44De3q6c3SOKyTCVJuPVtOoQkWqp8ejrzgz0nP-7blU2S0E73enTP1HUbFuxFqACUMZy1hc2oAkp2kHiCOx-7eEy84qVJCJDr7noGkvVzHbVR7cUJXAqphJQVm6UhxNn8wMq8KU/s320/Screen+Shot+2017-09-11+at+11.56.58+PM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<u><a href="http://www.oldfieldclothing.com/" target="_blank">Oldfield Clothing</a></u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDJYymaw4AoMLJGn5jghQb4MZkGSuOe_i-lAVXKY4xGSa0ec4N6nZtRkuDvBeRRt4R4w2s7pgTwIoIOQqj7zqTMJjUXmqZePPLoqI-AhCn2m2qO3Gz-tHCHnlebD6vIfnG-_REREynaO4/s1600/4632427466.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDJYymaw4AoMLJGn5jghQb4MZkGSuOe_i-lAVXKY4xGSa0ec4N6nZtRkuDvBeRRt4R4w2s7pgTwIoIOQqj7zqTMJjUXmqZePPLoqI-AhCn2m2qO3Gz-tHCHnlebD6vIfnG-_REREynaO4/s320/4632427466.png" width="128" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3I7ypn7FoGZ6Svcx80hu1Ew41oQ_CtqQM3ANQPV_EBIdLeRWsCvuAkY221BaqI-wcfLkqUBSmOtqJ46ZJ18jorn1tw3D1LYhmt0Sw9Fnmp8FE2CPJA9g7cabJSkTNmhQaraN3wVCRcuw/s1600/4632463941.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3I7ypn7FoGZ6Svcx80hu1Ew41oQ_CtqQM3ANQPV_EBIdLeRWsCvuAkY221BaqI-wcfLkqUBSmOtqJ46ZJ18jorn1tw3D1LYhmt0Sw9Fnmp8FE2CPJA9g7cabJSkTNmhQaraN3wVCRcuw/s320/4632463941.png" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdQ0CFUhhj5iKQaoGhNtrYDOKaVl2Ixd4Xr7nkrdKCS1PXwYC5vEkFeVvy8QRhXzRI_nETu6EqY8BnYIya9krLiS7ZboXnGTAklFHJTkwi0y2s11Mcyfg_D2hrx7B46v3DlcIh03GnpxY/s1600/4632509563_310x459.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdQ0CFUhhj5iKQaoGhNtrYDOKaVl2Ixd4Xr7nkrdKCS1PXwYC5vEkFeVvy8QRhXzRI_nETu6EqY8BnYIya9krLiS7ZboXnGTAklFHJTkwi0y2s11Mcyfg_D2hrx7B46v3DlcIh03GnpxY/s320/4632509563_310x459.png" width="216" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirpxe_qMShvxbnuAawbkccVUT_ad0xZ7ul5i1d3pnMuaOUspDomBbsR9tz3GSPuoJ251nxDpO9YGRa1eyV7Bsj3H3r1WMgoHJRZsWQhAOP_98Qw3oMtG25BgzFg-NFfRqzKWMLWMLRuQ4/s1600/4632886391_361x427.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirpxe_qMShvxbnuAawbkccVUT_ad0xZ7ul5i1d3pnMuaOUspDomBbsR9tz3GSPuoJ251nxDpO9YGRa1eyV7Bsj3H3r1WMgoHJRZsWQhAOP_98Qw3oMtG25BgzFg-NFfRqzKWMLWMLRuQ4/s320/4632886391_361x427.png" width="270" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpBUPQIdjraJ1KsUKbmoPEsAOg_ZVN2PjfOT_O7gHwd5NSNuYicJ4cDOoxVjDcsFWND5gP3wPJUnAUwQ5nt57DnwLIRsFGy9e45mLO1N2SN5Ju172w7U2vbUKCyH-YwKQYbeDYFPcgxuk/s1600/4632907780_406x604.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpBUPQIdjraJ1KsUKbmoPEsAOg_ZVN2PjfOT_O7gHwd5NSNuYicJ4cDOoxVjDcsFWND5gP3wPJUnAUwQ5nt57DnwLIRsFGy9e45mLO1N2SN5Ju172w7U2vbUKCyH-YwKQYbeDYFPcgxuk/s320/4632907780_406x604.jpg" width="215" /></a></div>
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Baggy Trousers, big caps, they appear to be all over the Leisurely English on a spring or fall afternoon look, and all over Good Wood revival.</div>
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<a href="http://fromchloehong.com/category/frommen/42/"><img border="0" height="121" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmGpp4ZP7cSAGLu9YXkHar2Hehnchy9VhOCKjE6UXyxXq8CcrcBfuvAUmZZOeSpekZiZHFjIQatpfUzOjGqXWVl-Ug-nH5UACVGJziJjFiTOwj2I9GHzNfvw7zOrSjk0engM2etvGHyzE/s320/22a7cb97a7a9a6c7b7909d7c3a18a22c_5_top.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<u><a href="http://fromchloehong.com/category/frommen/42/" target="_blank">FROM</a></u></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Designer – Chloe Hong</span></div>
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href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPeLklIzS-dueVrugkm8RMUxFoY2zwMFuPqXaZhS6qzD_Mz_TSCPkU_Ouqr09gTQg7x_3RioXzKAGeaHnlGeGU3twal-bl2gILytFE0dn0p7hl6IwQYFIrHR8Y5YOh1nM9H4tMDF_rHdo/s1600/21686262_10154957941958811_6961880686545387351_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPeLklIzS-dueVrugkm8RMUxFoY2zwMFuPqXaZhS6qzD_Mz_TSCPkU_Ouqr09gTQg7x_3RioXzKAGeaHnlGeGU3twal-bl2gILytFE0dn0p7hl6IwQYFIrHR8Y5YOh1nM9H4tMDF_rHdo/s320/21686262_10154957941958811_6961880686545387351_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilfC3T7ZB4COs00OpcMmbRK-BK-6yc207xevCkz_cwyB3hHGofWwL6C91lMifO3MkYdIoth_R-6Q6q7Cnw83r0i9LtHPRz4Upxrf3XAJtLoFBWJScmPPMFV7tIZlx94PJa-1esYe66Sg4/s1600/21687673_10154957941928811_8009767551951263040_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilfC3T7ZB4COs00OpcMmbRK-BK-6yc207xevCkz_cwyB3hHGofWwL6C91lMifO3MkYdIoth_R-6Q6q7Cnw83r0i9LtHPRz4Upxrf3XAJtLoFBWJScmPPMFV7tIZlx94PJa-1esYe66Sg4/s320/21687673_10154957941928811_8009767551951263040_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPzIxVQyEqXUM7qkk0sPZPx2HUNPZFdmq2M2yr3-W_WgiMzFozckpC4pMM46So92m5_BTWdE559IMgw4KpJW-C9Vp7qHUaB2eWQizt-2r0blNbgIqkvrkFa3-iNS_BJe9sdnJtgRym6cs/s1600/21728300_10154957941418811_7592695535367623325_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPzIxVQyEqXUM7qkk0sPZPx2HUNPZFdmq2M2yr3-W_WgiMzFozckpC4pMM46So92m5_BTWdE559IMgw4KpJW-C9Vp7qHUaB2eWQizt-2r0blNbgIqkvrkFa3-iNS_BJe9sdnJtgRym6cs/s320/21728300_10154957941418811_7592695535367623325_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKI03cXC7vFr10UdIYCg-tFwpg09qmktrZnnbPbb_GCPgKK3lewl1KCia9NYSUhTcPR0PZhaFYtIGCT7BHSxrQRqrWIts2H5D7B-3SzYJN5lECX7RmmYrtuOFTKB1UfQ9kdfbj-mrdnf0/s1600/21728550_10154957941983811_8279349101972529554_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKI03cXC7vFr10UdIYCg-tFwpg09qmktrZnnbPbb_GCPgKK3lewl1KCia9NYSUhTcPR0PZhaFYtIGCT7BHSxrQRqrWIts2H5D7B-3SzYJN5lECX7RmmYrtuOFTKB1UfQ9kdfbj-mrdnf0/s320/21728550_10154957941983811_8279349101972529554_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZukCOhsLsiYv9Z3z2hH5l_nxhEqtZ1Rk8cYYr8QVJHFkly_XhwlnyzeWDplf3ETTmmeOCdbxaktIf6cfRyRvTyydLFIdJHg4kLoztgxt2-UBur9aw5TFZdr6n7hRIj5if9A-f5OrZAZ8/s1600/21730903_10154957941883811_3743672575994462954_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZukCOhsLsiYv9Z3z2hH5l_nxhEqtZ1Rk8cYYr8QVJHFkly_XhwlnyzeWDplf3ETTmmeOCdbxaktIf6cfRyRvTyydLFIdJHg4kLoztgxt2-UBur9aw5TFZdr6n7hRIj5if9A-f5OrZAZ8/s320/21730903_10154957941883811_3743672575994462954_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRGtOcxJiWtERe4lRvEFzB1SVwPyPfmb7DIdAN3SnRytBjg91G8bar20RFW_Yl5B748Khlolf5JgnIInrPwofkix6oAvXulDG-hK6Scfbno-T7Dwwub1EfMnszllpzbMRHyktt8hf4im0/s1600/21730991_10154957941518811_5005983799419146109_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRGtOcxJiWtERe4lRvEFzB1SVwPyPfmb7DIdAN3SnRytBjg91G8bar20RFW_Yl5B748Khlolf5JgnIInrPwofkix6oAvXulDG-hK6Scfbno-T7Dwwub1EfMnszllpzbMRHyktt8hf4im0/s320/21730991_10154957941518811_5005983799419146109_n.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Designed to be more of a dancers attire, the cloths used to make the suits are quite soft yet have the absolute right period look. Three-piece suits cut to look very 1930s. I give them highest honors on the cut of the lapel as it captures that wideness and light curve of the era. Side adjusters on the trousers that have a high waist and a wide leg. I think I’m in love.</div>
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Properly cut patch pockets on the jackets, tall collars with rounded edges that are perfect for collar bars. The shoes were a particular excitement… and I may just get a pair to do a review of how they wear and can take a dance floor and walking life.</div>
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The jackets are fully lined and I prefer skeleton linings, especially with a belt back action back styling.</div>
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All in all I was impressed.</div>
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<a href="https://www.thomasfarthing.co.uk/"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMk_PAmeoc4fTQRQoXII8OZTxCrk2pbpDLko5NrynYR3GGrzglcrRwJm9wKkSi9SFK7wCkhVieQEr9nk-7IY-5HzsM4zQNXWsBuLnlXVK-yxmbpRqwE9LF3SRdJdFpp7M6kDD0XEE9BJA/s400/Screen+Shot+2017-09-12+at+12.05.54+AM.png" /></a></div>
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<u><a href="https://www.thomasfarthing.co.uk/" target="_blank">Thomas Farthing</a></u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9nlYaH3V6yJEdag62V3Vl21ty8Rmao2kc3Sq2h7WFtwRO3X7-jzCgIOngEZ6C6k7QtWQTHaOqrPo4AAsdzyGHoSauie8kCwTcNHZTq4ULOZ49dad-BxTTX9zoV1Aj3hAZkFgtqvKiA0M/s1600/DSCF7735.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9nlYaH3V6yJEdag62V3Vl21ty8Rmao2kc3Sq2h7WFtwRO3X7-jzCgIOngEZ6C6k7QtWQTHaOqrPo4AAsdzyGHoSauie8kCwTcNHZTq4ULOZ49dad-BxTTX9zoV1Aj3hAZkFgtqvKiA0M/s320/DSCF7735.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQAPTX6kO13iHtFPs3cX9Y0eS5IMQdoh9wqSMRU5zt5A2jHBR1a93awXToGLjmtjOIf6YQj9lrAwsvpi98N8ClqkLki13P0h9M5oMshYtp-zVQL16uXSUX5z-VKurAvwsg-Rg_Yv4JOds/s1600/Green.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQAPTX6kO13iHtFPs3cX9Y0eS5IMQdoh9wqSMRU5zt5A2jHBR1a93awXToGLjmtjOIf6YQj9lrAwsvpi98N8ClqkLki13P0h9M5oMshYtp-zVQL16uXSUX5z-VKurAvwsg-Rg_Yv4JOds/s320/Green.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE6WqsdHREu-Oxhgnp1-0nYl30sAjGWSW0iKBe383VL-o8nOf1aliTguhg8druaDWYsqCjKZYGDRV3OdAo_xYfpjB1TU8w4yep6MCxAbcSERtPI9N9Ypfz-au70cdyMNyJ-QkiCV4mmOI/s1600/Montana%252B-%252BBrown.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE6WqsdHREu-Oxhgnp1-0nYl30sAjGWSW0iKBe383VL-o8nOf1aliTguhg8druaDWYsqCjKZYGDRV3OdAo_xYfpjB1TU8w4yep6MCxAbcSERtPI9N9Ypfz-au70cdyMNyJ-QkiCV4mmOI/s320/Montana%252B-%252BBrown.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Their looks, even the ones that are supposed to be from the 1940s are very 1920s, yet there was a lot of lag in fashion when it came to what the US was doing and what the UK admired (if the styling is following the aesthetic of a UK of the 1940s still wearing older wears)… The film Brazil comes to mind, and I love every part of it.</div>
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Some exquisite cloth choices for things like large 8 panel caps in diamond pattern wool. I learned of them through just looking for copious amounts of information on hats. Being a headwear designer for the mass market and a lover that wears hats … I found them immediately enticing with their use of large brims and tall crowns. Seeing the cut of the vests and the fact that they had no fear of doing large runs of 4 button suits… This brand is a fast go to for a narrower shoulder 1920s work wear look.</div>
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The cut of the jacket is often a bit boxy with the narrow shoulders, the trousers have a beautiful drape.</div>
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<a href="http://www.prohibitionclothing.com/"><img border="0" height="120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWkAj-z1L7pDD10Vg-5jvdoOgRqP30t0wClhC6xU8VUnJVKyteuoW7Ylezn2TNwIT7WDu_2dt6cYqguEIFKNE9bjqR-GB8iR4e9mLXD1hBmt3drhNZYKLqTJaHAngOZX8ghsNsvnGUtqw/s320/Screen+Shot+2017-09-12+at+12.04.57+AM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<u><a href="http://www.prohibitionclothing.com/">Prohibition Clothing</a></u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAi0LnfQhUUEYoHHwlJp2GM-cXxQcoXGAjZ4egITfmLQRAFbeXJ0YiHQg-vXGO3sNjbUtRtihelgyzmsgof_YDUMp30H75HFDbVLpYHhNNHnxzFvDIbMtQUBeom4iV0udSVVVWjhYPIok/s1600/10101+Main.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAi0LnfQhUUEYoHHwlJp2GM-cXxQcoXGAjZ4egITfmLQRAFbeXJ0YiHQg-vXGO3sNjbUtRtihelgyzmsgof_YDUMp30H75HFDbVLpYHhNNHnxzFvDIbMtQUBeom4iV0udSVVVWjhYPIok/s320/10101+Main.jpg" width="168" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx1-8qeUKKgOqfnsVixBRPV6cf7456Rq8X8qysh5qxU08PT2eV9c-Yozp2rLDQFRla1hGfk7U5nE0so6zqmqMZXtjdvGdOI599UeB27SjWra8Sp7nsMx282teNCd1h5fUv_B4ZF1CEflQ/s1600/KW+10900-541.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx1-8qeUKKgOqfnsVixBRPV6cf7456Rq8X8qysh5qxU08PT2eV9c-Yozp2rLDQFRla1hGfk7U5nE0so6zqmqMZXtjdvGdOI599UeB27SjWra8Sp7nsMx282teNCd1h5fUv_B4ZF1CEflQ/s320/KW+10900-541.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2XwUM-pBjSI8ArV2ke1EXwt6MOvrZcUACY9WounNAVRI3P1lsN1yyAf0kqM6Ig9Lzbzzn83uzGsIvwhyJrva4uboqWiZJE6MR5JvHmZZytBzSkTB57P5t7dCPicbzeqVPDPtkHI5umbM/s1600/MAXM10309CM6_098_0.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2XwUM-pBjSI8ArV2ke1EXwt6MOvrZcUACY9WounNAVRI3P1lsN1yyAf0kqM6Ig9Lzbzzn83uzGsIvwhyJrva4uboqWiZJE6MR5JvHmZZytBzSkTB57P5t7dCPicbzeqVPDPtkHI5umbM/s320/MAXM10309CM6_098_0.jpg" width="256" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm0Ys_pbzNSok0f4x878TXTalzpDLOySDldNpsMRUeOZtTNQ3cCG43ZWGCHc2u5utoSpLWNYBAlGMuoVNU0_WtS9Tw5eLt9ll01FLIf6eyYrr7Fm9KEFawmRyPi7zvxj9Vd2Mha4bYtLg/s1600/prohibition_010_0.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm0Ys_pbzNSok0f4x878TXTalzpDLOySDldNpsMRUeOZtTNQ3cCG43ZWGCHc2u5utoSpLWNYBAlGMuoVNU0_WtS9Tw5eLt9ll01FLIf6eyYrr7Fm9KEFawmRyPi7zvxj9Vd2Mha4bYtLg/s320/prohibition_010_0.jpg" width="212" /></a></div>
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Going very much for the Gatsby look, many of the suit cuts look to be modified patterns of today. Softer lighter materials with a boxier fit to the suits and wide sleeve. A good price point for the entry level retro dresser that’s going to be dancing a lot.</div>
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The cloth choices aren’t as vintage to my eye, but the price is good and the shirting cloth is solid. I particularly like the large collar to the shirts.</div>
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The suit designs are hark to a more 1970s aesthetic, which has a classiness all to itself. A major plus for those looking for lot of fancy back jacket options.</div>
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I find the half belts a bit wide like what was done in the 70s. But if on the right guy, the clothes always look as though they are in motion.</div>
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The waists on the trousers and jackets are a bit low which is closer to the 1920s and 2010s aesthetic.</div>
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<a href="http://www.vecona-vintage.com/"><img border="0" height="51" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbdAR18LoQCEhPNxgYW16yaiwyJKs0EAzE7ORYhwZ4WxRNdkmdpwER2w8VP_HqYAkMMNFo-plZKHiOCtOuyXe1JlvCn4trrYVoeMzwpSYxOYi3if-0MrXTuXO8oxJAOcvg-biEqZNjXRo/s320/vv_veconavintage-slogan_rz.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<u><a href="http://www.vecona-vintage.com/" target="_blank">Vecona Vintage</a></u></div>
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One of the earliest in the repro menswear market, Vecona womenswear has always been exquisite, and the menswear follows that sense of German Detail on which the brand was founded.</div>
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What caught me at the beginning was the look of their vests. Kind of a whimsical take on the 1920s 30s look, they have constantly provided some properly draped trousers and vests heavily festooned with buttons.</div>
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The trousers look a bit low for the era with vests a bit long, yet the cut lets them be their own look with a bit of modern style helping the brand look not too retro. Very Superman Returns. The fang cut to the vests is superb!</div>
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<a href="http://www.simonjamescathcart.com/"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3g1lXQJUhco_o0DSOSdh9cFdvyYI2vF94BCas-snQ_uUEigfA-lfua8vWgdYq7He77x0Zdv2xCA-uuQovOoylbMAEXfX9d3oirHCNxMuJjDc5eoagr7QFcxb4OuZc-dybhdagXwlaJjI/s320/static1.squarespace.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<u><a href="http://www.simonjamescathcart.com/" target="_blank">Simon James Cathcart</a></u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgme5ieJuNaWyq_HQg8HoNdF9xEvVrayobS3uKjK84_6SdceH4Q0gkxHtZ4SSWgR9cBXHSHqt2yM_7Jawwi-sNnQz3b589kEexB3J-1kn_EBbNjOotYZvwIUPOxkE0MW-a0-5bsHk2sSZY/s1600/blue%252Bflat%252Btop%252Bopen%252Bcut%252B1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgme5ieJuNaWyq_HQg8HoNdF9xEvVrayobS3uKjK84_6SdceH4Q0gkxHtZ4SSWgR9cBXHSHqt2yM_7Jawwi-sNnQz3b589kEexB3J-1kn_EBbNjOotYZvwIUPOxkE0MW-a0-5bsHk2sSZY/s320/blue%252Bflat%252Btop%252Bopen%252Bcut%252B1.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgDDlCYpwwikGhRppO97y3rNcqVmc55zuceU3fwQ1B2acYpttzXRGhcaT8v687-ZeWLQq7Jyje5qHOokz-imbQQ_j5H-TQupVlSbfBSecv8z-4HLEabW9j-IDBJwNcFV6z_mbQozsFKRc/s1600/SJC%252Bshawl%252Bcollar%252Bjacket%252Bblack%252Bwww.simonjamescathcart.com%252Bfront%252Bside.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgDDlCYpwwikGhRppO97y3rNcqVmc55zuceU3fwQ1B2acYpttzXRGhcaT8v687-ZeWLQq7Jyje5qHOokz-imbQQ_j5H-TQupVlSbfBSecv8z-4HLEabW9j-IDBJwNcFV6z_mbQozsFKRc/s320/SJC%252Bshawl%252Bcollar%252Bjacket%252Bblack%252Bwww.simonjamescathcart.com%252Bfront%252Bside.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHn672iqVsZ5fbYxVduWxaHXe-64DQvUKkM1m_-K5BJQrA13yfdJ5ouJj33M09pINL3Kag1xm61DzxkmhLpdbifrdLYS02jpE9dEGlsx_DRHU2XPLFy_2yx9yVTu-xz9YALBevJeBKThU/s1600/sjcsimonjamescathcartwabashbigbdungareeshems.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHn672iqVsZ5fbYxVduWxaHXe-64DQvUKkM1m_-K5BJQrA13yfdJ5ouJj33M09pINL3Kag1xm61DzxkmhLpdbifrdLYS02jpE9dEGlsx_DRHU2XPLFy_2yx9yVTu-xz9YALBevJeBKThU/s320/sjcsimonjamescathcartwabashbigbdungareeshems.jpg" width="252" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">One of the newer editions to the world of repro vintage menswear. They do short runs of classic ankle boots, Hollywood style long collared polo shorts and most recently wide legged flannel trousers. The cloth is quite nice for the trousers, the shirts are very 1920s and 1930s and a bit fitted for a pullover. The boots are exquisite.</span></div>
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy-ShqAiv59uyxoIcNP2kMrXaf0qW0PYCOZYQfH3gNTlvNiqNNhaXPNnNYooJLQTIt4w_V3ltYPRY03LZiCn2h2Vm7Xc4Uma9P9TQ1PbAhKEuhug4cDFs1t02YFIWPLAYmk87flt_4VNM/s400/91987cd1c74241240b6f66c7bfa5cbea.jpg" /></div>
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<u><a href="http://www.revampvintage.com/" target="_blank">ReVamp vintage clothing</a></u></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbS2lEuKwCOwQAH0d_zDM1f3fzRkV8CHJ23svOWSv88KS4DsTlq2Es7jcHec77e3aDOz_qPsYgdtsS9uMkxuTxMkTqNPtslg_Fbla8GXkwnEf5cYqC6C6Tz8X-pyFEUIrVhii0igyhiIk/s1600/99945dc3b3e374c2e3763b85bd4e7a15.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbS2lEuKwCOwQAH0d_zDM1f3fzRkV8CHJ23svOWSv88KS4DsTlq2Es7jcHec77e3aDOz_qPsYgdtsS9uMkxuTxMkTqNPtslg_Fbla8GXkwnEf5cYqC6C6Tz8X-pyFEUIrVhii0igyhiIk/s320/99945dc3b3e374c2e3763b85bd4e7a15.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEcaHNeNiY7I_XRSeL1zdqzilwIMi2W_8oCqVO2m9BpPS9_DtsKyVCwPGyeZ0zQ7WHydKiGJjbEg-I3q9-hsWHVJ-oqI2bCMOMNCjHRYI03kddWfuqmw1zZIDfUu5lLcSQIhQcWnE1eSI/s1600/baxter-1-11-07.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEcaHNeNiY7I_XRSeL1zdqzilwIMi2W_8oCqVO2m9BpPS9_DtsKyVCwPGyeZ0zQ7WHydKiGJjbEg-I3q9-hsWHVJ-oqI2bCMOMNCjHRYI03kddWfuqmw1zZIDfUu5lLcSQIhQcWnE1eSI/s320/baxter-1-11-07.jpg" width="168" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWlkm8bCll55ZF1OW20ndHrhD-5B9mMqVehikr7FPUh3IaMTDfby0g5a3X-Pj36ZT7j6jXsIOK92e9eWcGfzqyfIfP9Gz-tX_OIA040fBPkSeyvme_-4UbKiAhoFqgzVFkTM3oWIsQ1n0/s1600/eddie-trousers-2-20in-100dpi_118x350.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWlkm8bCll55ZF1OW20ndHrhD-5B9mMqVehikr7FPUh3IaMTDfby0g5a3X-Pj36ZT7j6jXsIOK92e9eWcGfzqyfIfP9Gz-tX_OIA040fBPkSeyvme_-4UbKiAhoFqgzVFkTM3oWIsQ1n0/s320/eddie-trousers-2-20in-100dpi_118x350.jpg" width="107" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLvgPyqZ3poOoj863wRCO5ltJGwGetptKEdy6P26pSXvNUeS4KqZX58oGdZ38C3F2o5IytPt4I6bC1DHPgL3kEf4dB82hLPxQ9RCYhZMsWO5zK2x4FU7UB8A0-4ue5aLAD1_d4lV_bH1U/s1600/Elliot-vest-full.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLvgPyqZ3poOoj863wRCO5ltJGwGetptKEdy6P26pSXvNUeS4KqZX58oGdZ38C3F2o5IytPt4I6bC1DHPgL3kEf4dB82hLPxQ9RCYhZMsWO5zK2x4FU7UB8A0-4ue5aLAD1_d4lV_bH1U/s320/Elliot-vest-full.jpg" width="290" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4XA76pPqunIlhFpou7H3EhvhDe_uC8bjzZ8huzGj3xosE3_KYbWH7lR4IB2uKll1BVX6xacAfYke7BR0TSrcYudPPG0bUkbzCMhT86jX43ZYnaBQQE9iBblFnPgm7J3hC_vdavLXTkn0/s1600/img-thing.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4XA76pPqunIlhFpou7H3EhvhDe_uC8bjzZ8huzGj3xosE3_KYbWH7lR4IB2uKll1BVX6xacAfYke7BR0TSrcYudPPG0bUkbzCMhT86jX43ZYnaBQQE9iBblFnPgm7J3hC_vdavLXTkn0/s400/img-thing.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEielP3xu6d9N5wp46FNCEeRKv1GxcWl6SQ23vlJaUss10o6bMO3sW8J6aBf0r0MPAX7fm3Nb9p5kbdyQcfZcQB8t6a4HttHKcK_vIR_JIoCvYR5QTb4UuQSYeyrS4fStXoJrVz_Pe_lra0/s1600/Jack-trousers-1-20in-100dpi_134x350.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEielP3xu6d9N5wp46FNCEeRKv1GxcWl6SQ23vlJaUss10o6bMO3sW8J6aBf0r0MPAX7fm3Nb9p5kbdyQcfZcQB8t6a4HttHKcK_vIR_JIoCvYR5QTb4UuQSYeyrS4fStXoJrVz_Pe_lra0/s320/Jack-trousers-1-20in-100dpi_134x350.jpg" width="122" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrAk4vkfod-mYGkXiMNLYwGAjFATTRhyphenhyphen98ncaBu6k9aT-Lznj_L7RGslaVLyUQqr6TFB8B9iy_-xoO5jfT9gTqlz_Xy2aTlHu7_rRKoJP2FZ0FNbZYS6llyyq6AKTYuJWe9fi7gXiOTM8/s1600/sid-all-20in-100dpi_148x350.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrAk4vkfod-mYGkXiMNLYwGAjFATTRhyphenhyphen98ncaBu6k9aT-Lznj_L7RGslaVLyUQqr6TFB8B9iy_-xoO5jfT9gTqlz_Xy2aTlHu7_rRKoJP2FZ0FNbZYS6llyyq6AKTYuJWe9fi7gXiOTM8/s320/sid-all-20in-100dpi_148x350.jpg" width="135" /></a></div>
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Perhaps the oldest in the game and begun by my friend Annamarie von Firley in 1998. Revamp offers LA made wide trousers, vests with a lot of buttons and some of the more whimsical and rare looks from times gone by done in modern cloths often for a drape that allows a good swing for dancing.</div>
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<u><br /></u> <u><a href="http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigNl7QkGPxNliEMgCq-RrlMfupk8rZgEUb3hdgwjiwS9ZAG4FtpQ-Rx2T50Vd5H9XSyy6MgPCouKhTH7sghoaFjMZ6o1pqZescXLMaLfaUY_TQAEVQ-57sXzVST_wmLMarw9p8M69x3O8/s400/darcy.png" /></a></u></div>
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<u><a href="http://www.darcyclothing.com/shop/" target="_blank">Darcy Clothing</a></u></div>
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Very post WWI and pre WWI looks for the person that likes to look disheveled while wondering the old manner. Formerly the Vintage Shirt Company, they spearheaded the English spearpoint collar resurgence and are a staple of any UK production working to make a period piece. Specialties include their high waisted trousers with a fishtail back and detachable collars. Always great for that period out of work writer look with a collar fang sticking up from lack of being pressed. Long tails and billowy fine cloth.<br />
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<a href="http://www.chestercordite.com/"><img border="0" height="144" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZ7otnppioUbATJ_U4jtvoSE6klTwzI2u_wVyEMKDgv_DBv0YVgc3bvoOVDF2Lo3DMuKLkeq1zlafuUkoaqeSWArQc7rTWHm8ix5ziAka_hgodpb8BiCPw_FFr_EGDWrbjGeUV8x6BI3k/s320/Screen+Shot+2017-09-12+at+12.03.27+AM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.chestercordite.com/" target="_blank"><br /></a>
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<u><a href="http://www.chestercordite.com/" target="_blank">Chester Cordite</a></u></div>
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<u><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwDnVfvxQ3veBACJ3ls772v3_Ska3mQQC-su0jrVJCA_NWIU7ZUF8Cs9hVibrS1_6BEKyEnEnbBxCBCPgaEKZ1v9bq5ufkxsDNRi22QV7an-egVacqBdeg8VRnea9ceXjSLyKgFNQZVEc/s1600/1-copy_orig.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwDnVfvxQ3veBACJ3ls772v3_Ska3mQQC-su0jrVJCA_NWIU7ZUF8Cs9hVibrS1_6BEKyEnEnbBxCBCPgaEKZ1v9bq5ufkxsDNRi22QV7an-egVacqBdeg8VRnea9ceXjSLyKgFNQZVEc/s320/1-copy_orig.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaOdeWACx0LNq04Ysc5378LBTjowW4yaQwuq-HAynFfBV1u5tVo3oFGQ11NasHbZjJh9_aq6EvqXh8KdMLr6r1YUUkSA-wYLdSdj9rZ9t1RsK_XQTfgLLTVAklsyFwBs2IuU31z60J1Iw/s1600/72420_1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaOdeWACx0LNq04Ysc5378LBTjowW4yaQwuq-HAynFfBV1u5tVo3oFGQ11NasHbZjJh9_aq6EvqXh8KdMLr6r1YUUkSA-wYLdSdj9rZ9t1RsK_XQTfgLLTVAklsyFwBs2IuU31z60J1Iw/s320/72420_1.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih3RqhGfRjOM1vD6JiA2JHU99B-jQNOl4_L4wSS0FBRDCh6MBIduWgnASP7tz1w5Ko83Rw8Edz5u_xHIoB9X3hSEi7Gce2lgB0LtvzNsokV1vNEvAsK5wcAzXQGX3X6L6qlD6KrEwRNSQ/s1600/8141171_1_orig.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih3RqhGfRjOM1vD6JiA2JHU99B-jQNOl4_L4wSS0FBRDCh6MBIduWgnASP7tz1w5Ko83Rw8Edz5u_xHIoB9X3hSEi7Gce2lgB0LtvzNsokV1vNEvAsK5wcAzXQGX3X6L6qlD6KrEwRNSQ/s320/8141171_1_orig.png" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaUoj0f1UIA5RlRMCTjUYR3IBKdkKYTD0k5-kBpYuL80YikuA6tCjz7qEsMeA0i9RCEfL9WNUYMfMpPqwjRpOubMj7MJTy2JAe5uFRHw06JBQx45XlVgN3hS_5CLxWUyUojSuGN3eHRls/s1600/1429347648_1.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaUoj0f1UIA5RlRMCTjUYR3IBKdkKYTD0k5-kBpYuL80YikuA6tCjz7qEsMeA0i9RCEfL9WNUYMfMpPqwjRpOubMj7MJTy2JAe5uFRHw06JBQx45XlVgN3hS_5CLxWUyUojSuGN3eHRls/s320/1429347648_1.png" width="217" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUXMEJjFka8EBoesJUDloLc8kgJUcPC5KR03Vkwyg_jbDKOIn5focieaitygIdZuT6nA4DwbzDBrn37iCBPU-zpa-eT1ZQuUvBGoe9Pvr6tX4qAOZ76QC1aSl_dLNWJxkEq7XzzxB-8io/s1600/blk-chalk-st-sb3-ab-1_4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUXMEJjFka8EBoesJUDloLc8kgJUcPC5KR03Vkwyg_jbDKOIn5focieaitygIdZuT6nA4DwbzDBrn37iCBPU-zpa-eT1ZQuUvBGoe9Pvr6tX4qAOZ76QC1aSl_dLNWJxkEq7XzzxB-8io/s320/blk-chalk-st-sb3-ab-1_4.jpg" width="244" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKGkz1qKoq4KGRZzlZtgaPDVkte9AH6Puzl-65ZZ9bGHGBGra_X79accy9fC0w1cJprGuM9tb53njm4h3fjjr5MerW5u1vU7NguI8zKujAaw7xboBWO5Qxb0N33R_3X8pFDRQUMxDWmzU/s1600/blk-chalk-st-sb3-ab-3_2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKGkz1qKoq4KGRZzlZtgaPDVkte9AH6Puzl-65ZZ9bGHGBGra_X79accy9fC0w1cJprGuM9tb53njm4h3fjjr5MerW5u1vU7NguI8zKujAaw7xboBWO5Qxb0N33R_3X8pFDRQUMxDWmzU/s320/blk-chalk-st-sb3-ab-3_2.jpg" width="245" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlviQ3cPI0KH3_oWMtEQb2JsQYcoZh5IY-VCsvui340fzK2-N-gVhoYmfy88HXBJtUetUZgE6zdXMkIwD-HFgK_pIM_SFGKPpEOSvB_bn0h6TW7CrgQbQXXMuxIOk4sIf9gDftl-g5RkM/s1600/me-at-brooklands-2-simonburgessphotography_1.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlviQ3cPI0KH3_oWMtEQb2JsQYcoZh5IY-VCsvui340fzK2-N-gVhoYmfy88HXBJtUetUZgE6zdXMkIwD-HFgK_pIM_SFGKPpEOSvB_bn0h6TW7CrgQbQXXMuxIOk4sIf9gDftl-g5RkM/s320/me-at-brooklands-2-simonburgessphotography_1.png" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2hvpMfEVj_4E9vgIP03khw9xEpfgOuiNDP-ORObEtKLFK2p-qJ67QxSuBMmdaUfUOQ8nwJuo4EEtJ2lWkG2wQGqWNQjkRBgQB0ZIPYVxMyc1qIlLBuNZ9Sej37L15TH9kG6IXetEv15o/s1600/tim-franks-for-website_1.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2hvpMfEVj_4E9vgIP03khw9xEpfgOuiNDP-ORObEtKLFK2p-qJ67QxSuBMmdaUfUOQ8nwJuo4EEtJ2lWkG2wQGqWNQjkRBgQB0ZIPYVxMyc1qIlLBuNZ9Sej37L15TH9kG6IXetEv15o/s320/tim-franks-for-website_1.png" width="320" /></a></u></div>
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Very much the post WWII Noir look in style, the shoulders are wide as are the lapels, giving the wearer that "I'm big" look that was popular after fabric rationing ended. Very elegant wide ties and longer Amercian style Hollywood style spearpoint collar shirts. Lots of proper back details to the jackets and nice long points to the vests. </div>
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<a href="http://adjustable.cart.fc2.com/"><img border="0" height="103" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVIe2Ush7CO5fxpdYn_qaVRtnNdVLsiBkc_Q2eMz8tJU4yeD4EvOMY9XDokXFLIir2iM3kP8-6SHkOOMf-HFu3b0RB_uFog-4aAhA8QxDr33Ghyphenhyphen0pYBU-f2lVeZvP9yvmDWJsAMBfKZWg/s320/Screen+Shot+2017-09-11+at+11.57.45+PM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<u><a href="http://adjustable.cart.fc2.com/" target="_blank">Adjustable Costume</a></u></div>
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Designer - Kazuki Kodaka</div>
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A leader in bringing back some very rare items like the siren suit for men as sported by Winston Churchill, and the first brand I've seen properly put out a 1930s cut and sewn necktie. AC has a genuine workwear for daily wear feel that is something that doesn't always go hand in glove, but for his wears, they are a build and styling that can be worn under the car or at the desk at the office and still carry their romance and mystery that we love of the past. Durable and classicly constructed. </div>
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<a href="https://www.old-town.co.uk/"><img border="0" height="53" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTsnDdOJwsefUfK3EAnwwI2GhpnVvbdgVVJyWyiUUCCXmLNuWISRcQpgTZACK0KabA6Ouvlw-b7iCHB0RjQ5PB0Ust2SWcTX4JtrcT17HmQeVvN7djpdx7PKzadlrqP97mIanPmwRiNT8/s320/home_page_logo.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.old-town.co.uk/" target="_blank">Old-Town</a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE2jqrGxjB1Fhk3N2HV6_K6TiAC4_A0zjJ6hpJLqDSXsbf-o0QgMUg7uoDYbcFIXivXnutcuGfOxROtXzF_tJwXVpslemNZLsmiZ8vr3baF6Eyo7hTP9beo6uPF7EWaPNhHUrsEfXkLgQ/s1600/106d9aaa90c4e5752543fa57cb52a150.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE2jqrGxjB1Fhk3N2HV6_K6TiAC4_A0zjJ6hpJLqDSXsbf-o0QgMUg7uoDYbcFIXivXnutcuGfOxROtXzF_tJwXVpslemNZLsmiZ8vr3baF6Eyo7hTP9beo6uPF7EWaPNhHUrsEfXkLgQ/s320/106d9aaa90c4e5752543fa57cb52a150.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6V9jFSt7gfVdlOgn5Xck7BDH6yfEvFuHK7bbzCLXVNZXO-9mG4of4achcqRao-5-au85CEYdBsuq0TvJGLajyj19MNMNJrPhKmlGB5x_bC7iOpfRxn3JXYBMzjieDK5LZ7hAR4Cu5NU/s1600/canvey_square.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6V9jFSt7gfVdlOgn5Xck7BDH6yfEvFuHK7bbzCLXVNZXO-9mG4of4achcqRao-5-au85CEYdBsuq0TvJGLajyj19MNMNJrPhKmlGB5x_bC7iOpfRxn3JXYBMzjieDK5LZ7hAR4Cu5NU/s320/canvey_square.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXA2IlvotxpqVjVI3ByI-n5Um9rHEzLw698cry_rhTwLd3FmiKceO7dWYvVGKnzk4nUeSRpYwRvCtsMqIMiTVlrBJwtHdWZAN_KJcjypprhUSkMC-rbG7uohSP4YE7L0I3Ukzpa68jPIo/s1600/galleries_cley.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXA2IlvotxpqVjVI3ByI-n5Um9rHEzLw698cry_rhTwLd3FmiKceO7dWYvVGKnzk4nUeSRpYwRvCtsMqIMiTVlrBJwtHdWZAN_KJcjypprhUSkMC-rbG7uohSP4YE7L0I3Ukzpa68jPIo/s320/galleries_cley.jpg" width="197" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuhl8JahbLe1P4EJ0ics0xievAlBoQgaTFuD2fv02SYoZgc5sPuqkZJp6qPHpweOPWyS3MvodjCDar9A29dIZiH1fAbf9kfCW1jUrBVdbKA5BXNRDTxQdAloa0yyr4BodCwDu15jlOrm0/s1600/high_rise_trouser1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuhl8JahbLe1P4EJ0ics0xievAlBoQgaTFuD2fv02SYoZgc5sPuqkZJp6qPHpweOPWyS3MvodjCDar9A29dIZiH1fAbf9kfCW1jUrBVdbKA5BXNRDTxQdAloa0yyr4BodCwDu15jlOrm0/s320/high_rise_trouser1.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMMqY7Z_V8YSh5ogYe7PP0O8L0nKjFeM_dOE0sdZTqnWxb4RsfHGKUC1w1yOf24NzaRMAcRtbdBxBC8VE-B-orHZxb7WA880q0cM6O1pMUMFVBN5rWegGMZ2kgf4OuLH2kqkJSvpHEzM/s1600/high_rise_trouser4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMMMqY7Z_V8YSh5ogYe7PP0O8L0nKjFeM_dOE0sdZTqnWxb4RsfHGKUC1w1yOf24NzaRMAcRtbdBxBC8VE-B-orHZxb7WA880q0cM6O1pMUMFVBN5rWegGMZ2kgf4OuLH2kqkJSvpHEzM/s320/high_rise_trouser4.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbmoZI854koaaJ4JgyEbRLPI8lB_dLpngcckyyml3dIMP9kMzbiuc7tpLKifeULWoRnmTTvkkq6D2L2wFHFmE5ZrvD_eZOjRCk0q7Zu-NfoFWfJYgZQkpTb-aT1cpA1xpl0mKUabOJcJQ/s1600/skylark_jumper.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbmoZI854koaaJ4JgyEbRLPI8lB_dLpngcckyyml3dIMP9kMzbiuc7tpLKifeULWoRnmTTvkkq6D2L2wFHFmE5ZrvD_eZOjRCk0q7Zu-NfoFWfJYgZQkpTb-aT1cpA1xpl0mKUabOJcJQ/s320/skylark_jumper.jpg" width="212" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3WtoCHSUStIT8DFNoY1PePxtsPYt5Ftk7JPXswYaw27cWxHdk8IFlnOR7875udKEVfoUTyqoerQr1nGTttspfEhGXPCc9xJCipFc9RKHyHyfZuLK-LVXXDhYnJcq7wOw_aosTU1EkHdA/s1600/stanley4.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3WtoCHSUStIT8DFNoY1PePxtsPYt5Ftk7JPXswYaw27cWxHdk8IFlnOR7875udKEVfoUTyqoerQr1nGTttspfEhGXPCc9xJCipFc9RKHyHyfZuLK-LVXXDhYnJcq7wOw_aosTU1EkHdA/s320/stanley4.jpg" width="212" /></a></div>
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Very much more the workwear before fashion style of the turn of the 1800s to the 1900s. Sack cut jackets and high waisted trousers made for movement with no padding in the shoulders; when worn with a necktie, you'll look like you're leaving for that vintage factory job and you'll be coming back in about 9 hours covered in soot. Love it!</div>
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I'll grow the list, but these are the first that come to mind. Check out the pages by clicking on the names of the shops.</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "sf optimized" , , , , ".sfnstext-regular" , sans-serif; font-size: 24px;">Do it yourself, do it in style.</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span></div>
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Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-17560734735512098152017-07-04T14:10:00.001-07:002017-07-04T14:10:17.644-07:00Don't fall off<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: 14pt;">So The last few day's... someone told me that they were on an ATV and had to remove their hat so not to lose their hat. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14pt;">Keeping your hat on your head</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">By Matt Deckard<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The fitted hat<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">These are traditionally men’s hats such as the derby, the fedora and the top hat. They are made in multiple sizes or can be made custom to the exact size and shape of the wearer’s head. The preferred fit is loose enough to not leave a visible mark on the forehead, yet snug enough to hold on through aggravated movement or a brisk gust of wind. Just above the ears and the eyebrows around the circumference of the head. The hat is suspended on a band of leather or cloth that is pretty much gripping your skull to stay in place. For these styles, even the ballcap, keeping your hat from getting caught in the wind and flying away is a simple matter of proper fit.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">The non-fitted hat <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Most traditional women’s hats are made to fit on top of or over a multitude hairstyles. Because of this, there is no relying on a proper fit or a band of material fitted to the head that has to be precisely measured. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Non-fitted hats are affixed to the head by various techniques. Here are a few of them below.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">1.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Combs with tines that are facing upwards into the hat. Putting the hat on requires the wearer to push the comb into the hair. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-size: 14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: Cambria; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">2.<span style="font: 7.0pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">An elastic strap that is affixed to the right and left side of the hat. Once the hat is in the proper place on the head, the elastic strap is stretched behind the head and placed under the hair to provide a solid anchor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -.25in;">
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<span style="font-size: 14.0pt;">Whether it be a nurses cap that requires bobby pins to attach it to the top of the head by sliding the clips over the thin material while gripping your hair, or a helmet cloche that completely envelops the head and requires nothing to keep it in place, or the fascinator that may simply have a gator clip that clamps into the hair, there is no end to the spectrum of ways milliners have found to affix these pieces of art atop a client. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-32902201060729759702017-07-04T13:41:00.000-07:002017-07-04T13:41:18.540-07:00The bow around the crown<span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "San Francisco", -apple-system, system-ui, ".SFNSText-Regular", sans-serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: -0.24px;">Signatures in bows. I was speaking to the hat folks at the opening of the @monsivaisco hatshop about certain signature details. Menswear is about slight little changes. Details almost imperceptible lest you are looking for them. The bow on these hats I dubbed the X-1 for stetson. The up kick of the bow is behind the longer end which is level with the hat. It's also done proper here with cotton stitch rather than the previously used clear thin fishing line thread. Unreleased, but back to the manufactures roots of using natural materials. There are a few other secrets to the bow, but it's one I'm very proud to have taken time to perfect and have executed properly, over and over and over again. </span><a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"tn":"*N","type":104}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/windcord?source=feed_text&story_id=10154757406333811" style="background-color: white; color: #365899; cursor: pointer; font-family: "San Francisco", -apple-system, system-ui, ".SFNSText-Regular", sans-serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: -0.24px; text-decoration-line: none;"><span class="_5afx" style="direction: ltr; font-family: inherit; unicode-bidi: isolate;"><span aria-label="hashtag" class="_58cl _5afz" style="color: #4267b2; font-family: inherit; unicode-bidi: isolate;">#</span><span class="_58cm" style="font-family: inherit;">windcord</span></span></a><span style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: "San Francisco", -apple-system, system-ui, ".SFNSText-Regular", sans-serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: -0.24px;"> </span><a class="_58cn" data-ft="{"tn":"*N","type":104}" href="https://www.facebook.com/hashtag/windtrolly?source=feed_text&story_id=10154757406333811" style="background-color: white; color: #365899; cursor: pointer; font-family: "San Francisco", -apple-system, system-ui, ".SFNSText-Regular", sans-serif; font-size: 14px; letter-spacing: -0.24px; text-decoration-line: none;"><span class="_5afx" style="direction: ltr; font-family: inherit; unicode-bidi: isolate;"><span aria-label="hashtag" class="_58cl _5afz" style="color: #4267b2; font-family: inherit; unicode-bidi: isolate;">#</span><span class="_58cm" style="font-family: inherit;">windtrolly</span></span></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6ioVmEoTB0hOcltDPGTz1XL1U2faw3usalQ1BQDNpw6muEK68JFGoGuPlsjzxWsGDq0Q7T1Fr7oLDWxVm6RhzPk84gBE5yFNLJsJYpA3j93kLPz_tkX_yqy2AtP6whpbaXYn3mipcPJ8/s1600/19642638_10154757406108811_6874856131112528133_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6ioVmEoTB0hOcltDPGTz1XL1U2faw3usalQ1BQDNpw6muEK68JFGoGuPlsjzxWsGDq0Q7T1Fr7oLDWxVm6RhzPk84gBE5yFNLJsJYpA3j93kLPz_tkX_yqy2AtP6whpbaXYn3mipcPJ8/s320/19642638_10154757406108811_6874856131112528133_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw5yWkrvqkCeoOxtaax2KjBQvs9BQ8TgolzYaN9z7h0ohgTdPNrd5hyEZeqtHurY7R7Dw_uO5gmtQBP-dBFbeD6-kfnpweD9Ps7hyv5SZByTzF8lXQb16kTH9SCrZQj6804K9WRDuG6TY/s1600/19601609_10154757406228811_6945789515111069183_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw5yWkrvqkCeoOxtaax2KjBQvs9BQ8TgolzYaN9z7h0ohgTdPNrd5hyEZeqtHurY7R7Dw_uO5gmtQBP-dBFbeD6-kfnpweD9Ps7hyv5SZByTzF8lXQb16kTH9SCrZQj6804K9WRDuG6TY/s320/19601609_10154757406228811_6945789515111069183_n.jpg" width="180" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyB0KMHJG_HM_DPeTNuZ0-fVgaEn1bQZDKuyl63V3yeGVXdU8-SuGuzInpV4SNvYdZ7XkScz1C5iSpGsTmpUGg_BoWTke0jMyTgptv8LZvgXGsuNnB8t2UxpeBOjOngh4m4hSma_v5A-0/s1600/19702337_10154757406118811_7572186132478101666_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyB0KMHJG_HM_DPeTNuZ0-fVgaEn1bQZDKuyl63V3yeGVXdU8-SuGuzInpV4SNvYdZ7XkScz1C5iSpGsTmpUGg_BoWTke0jMyTgptv8LZvgXGsuNnB8t2UxpeBOjOngh4m4hSma_v5A-0/s320/19702337_10154757406118811_7572186132478101666_n.jpg" width="180" /></a>Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-11953515177696848622017-07-01T06:47:00.000-07:002017-07-01T06:47:03.863-07:00The gravity of a person<div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12.8px;">
Diane Naegel</div>
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I don't get around to what I want to do, 'til I do. </div>
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She was one of those friends that I'd talk to daily, in a time when I think everyone was just figuring out relationships in a new way. Internet created a whole new world of culture and emotions and politics and she and I would talk about it all. But there was a grand difference between what a lot of other people I'd discuss life with saw and did and what she saw and did. We'd go toe to to with ideas about life and people. She'd go deep into the weeds when it came to all subjects, but she had that field around her that defused and incopasicated the drama. It came from just being there and loving and wanting to know people for who they really were. An absolute lack of malice with a strong curiosity. </div>
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She and I were close, and we'd talk daily. I'd love hearing that ping in the morning so I could see what was going on with her mother or the new guy she'd met, or some debate over adding an item to the line for Osh-Kosh. I'd tell her how I could go out and spend the night dancing, but then I'd just go out and kinda hide in the shadows fearing in a way that I'd have to talk to someone when I knew I went out to engage and see people. </div>
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Introvert extrovert is tossed out a lot these days, but she got me when it came to how I didn't like to be swallowed by the world I was in, but wanted to give it all I saw. Odd to think about, and odd to execute. </div>
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We'd go on and on typing and calling over the phone and at sometimes skyping about what and why she was working on for Osh-Kosh, and she made me feel like the only person she knew on the west coast. Like I was an essential person to her life that saw things in a lot of ways how she saw things, and knowing how special she was to the world, and knowing that what she did was magical to my eyes, I couldn't wait to hear that ping at times that would tell me that someone I could share all with was messaging me to share her day, insights, her thoughts. <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">She'd tell me how I could break people down so easily, and want to listen to everything. Even when I didn't engage with them, she instigated me to get out of the shadows more and get back to just dancing and just ask for dances and I'd often ignore. She knew when I dance I make new friend with every song, not just have a dance. We'd roam around shops and I'd trail behind her at the vintage fashion expos as we'd gab about who and why and what would work in her next line. It wasn't about having an eye, it was about knowing all the pieces of the pie of humanity and who, where (where the person lived) someone would just see what was being made, and knowing that it would grab the eye because -- if she were that person, in that life, she'd buy that. And she inspired me and helped me feel that that gift of just reading a culture, I had it too. She'd listen to all my mistakes and I to hers and it was all okay because people learn.</span></div>
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When she decided to start a new publication, I believed and trusted she'd make it happen. She was a true leader and she could do it. And she asked me for an article and to help bring in some ads to support the first issues. She did it. She saw the idea, laid it out and all the way made me feel as though I was giving her as much energy to not fail as she gave me to just put myself out there. She never got to see me accomplish some of the feats I feel she told me I could. </div>
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She found a man out there in New York that she loved dearly, and what I loved hearing was that he got her too. She surprised herself and we'd talk back and forth about being accepted loving a man when she'd dated so many women before, but this one made her feel and know he was right for her. When she messaged me telling me her cancer had returned I sunk. I was reading through those old messages on those mornings again that prompted this. She had a double mastectomy and chemo was destroying her, but she was worried about something she felt so my mind was all on "get yourself to the doctor" and her mind was very much on wanting her guy to not worry about her. </div>
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The point is, I'm an oddball in a lot of ways. But when I find someone that gets me, I'm overjoyed. She was one that got everyone but didn't hide it, she helped me glow. Cancer took her. I told her in person once how much she made me feel as though I was accepted. She left a mark on my soul, and left a magazine for what she loved as a legacy. </div>
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Now Onward.</div>
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This is the last Article Diane Naegel and I spoke about. She read it once and I think edited it a bit. It's in an out of print Zelda so I figure it's time to put it out there.</div>
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<span class="il">Under</span> <span class="il">Your</span> <span class="il">Collar</span> and Over <span class="il">Your</span> Buttons</div>
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Yesterday’s Version of Today’s Necktie</div>
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Because you need to protect yourself from the elements, and men are always working on newer and better outfits for warfare, menswear form usually really does follow function. Suits tend to walk in the footsteps of field uniforms made for combat the idea is easy wear and care. This goes for men’s hats and shoes as well, for example, the holes in <span class="il">your</span> perforated wingtips were originally a functional design made to let out water when walking through bogs. However, unlike the other pieces of clothing men wear, the necktie has no other purpose other than to ad color. No it’s not to keep <span class="il">your</span> neck warm like a scarf, it doesn’t hold the <span class="il">collar</span> closed unless you have lost a button, and it isn’t for wiping up <span class="il">your</span> dripped ketchup like <span class="il">your </span>handkerchief. The necktie is unlike any of those things. It’s not like the cufflink that holds <span class="il">your</span> shirt closed at the wrist. The tie is decoration and decoration alone.</div>
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Since this is Zelda, I’ll stick to those ties that were around before that second war to end all wars. The ties that were there after the great “you can wear anything as a tie” period and before the long, thick and gaudy “this is a tie” period took hold.</div>
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In the 1910s and 20s, the necktie came into its own and changed from being a thin ribbon or a big flouncy draping piece of silk. The cut and drape of the ties became standardized following in the footsteps of the sack suit that had arrived a few decades earlier. It was the cut for an industrial era that came with it the demands of an industrial etiquette. Wrapped around the neck, tied into a knot in front of the <span class="il">collar</span> and the tip falling downward ending in a diamond shaped point that stopped a couple inches above the belly.</div>
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They may sound boring or staid with their new cookie cutter shape and length, but the purpose of the tie still remained. It was that peacock flare that a man used to show his spirit. Even though there were now rules involved, the tie had to shine past those rules. In an era of jazz and gangsters and prohibition and a boring industrial origin, it turned into the palette for display of affiliation wealth and attitude that nothing else in a man’s wardrobe could rival.</div>
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The ties from the 1910s and before WWII were very specific in their design and construction, and even though you can still buy representations of these ties from a myriad of shops that pride themselves on how stodgy they are and how little they have changed there wears since their beginnings, the ties these shops sell today are truly only representations of something that was once great. Representations with all the life and beauty and elegance and simplicity sucked out of them. So please don’t wear them, and here is why.</div>
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#1 Length: When it comes to modern ties they are outrageously long.</div>
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Being an item that was meant to dress up the neck and disappear into the closure of the jacket, they don’t. They peek out from below <span class="il">your</span> jacket and hang over the waistband of <span class="il">your</span> trousers. You’ll often end up checking to see if you peed on the tip when leaving the restroom. And tucking it in <span class="il">your</span> pants isn’t an option since that just looks weird and will bulge <span class="il">your</span> jacket upward when you sit down.</div>
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#2 Weight: When it comes to modern ties they are outrageously heavy and thick.</div>
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It’s a pendulum rather than a display of silk, a pendulum that swings back and forth paying n attention to that breeze of wind that would ad romance to the tie if it had any. With this outrageous weight and bulk, you can’t tie knots that jut away from <span class="il">your </span><span class="il">collar</span>, you can’t ad pins or <span class="il">collar</span> bars because the knots turn out way too big. In fact with the modern tie and it’s bulk the tie ends up being all about the knot.</div>
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# 3 Shape: When it comes to modern ties they are outrageously straight and BORING.</div>
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It wasn’t meant to be a stripe from <span class="il">your</span> <span class="il">collar</span> to below <span class="il">your</span> waistband with a sole purpose being covering <span class="il">your</span> buttons. The tie would start at <span class="il">your</span> neck as a tight knot and the sides would become further and further apart as the silk descended, and at the widest point, a point that was usually an inch or 2 away from the waistband of <span class="il">your</span> trousers, the sides would stop their spread and jut back toward a centerline, ultimately giving the tie a diamond shape. The bottom end of the tie was glorious arrow, which dictated that below that waistline was the wearer’s manhood. With the modern silk bar they make today, you just have something that hangs from <span class="il">your</span> <span class="il">collar</span> with a tip that runs past <span class="il">your</span> waistline… just a button cover that is roped around <span class="il">your</span>neck.</div>
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Now where can you find a tie today that isn’t a long gaudy silk rope?</div>
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Well you can hunt vintage shops and hope I haven’t already been there, but there are a couple other options.</div>
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The closest in make and design on the market today are those ties made for the Rugby line of Ralph Lauren. They are simply the silk twill with a light weight interlining, no loop in the back to pass the shorter end through and an unlined tip… this is important because you may want to gently iron that tie tip out into more of a diamond shape to capture that gentle spread ties used to make. Just chop off about 4 from the narrower end and tie the tie so it hangs a few inches above <span class="il">your</span> waistline and you are good to go.</div>
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You could also go to Brooks Brothers and head straight for the boys department. In there you will find ties that are made to meet the needs of a man of normal stature. Why they put them there, I don’t know… but in a pinch when you are in pants that actually sit at <span class="il">your</span> waist, they fit the bill.</div>
Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-17046696376487867452017-05-10T07:35:00.003-07:002017-05-10T07:35:45.899-07:00Fallen arches. Not the defeated enemies in front of you, the enemies beneath you<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivw-s6N8NgquNZRsugGB2U8vwf71HV4QRlXPwGlskvZRXMxbyeS945BxMIDqRYYRuOUpS6A3za-T9aCrHuluuP-j9FGy4P6Ij9a5Y48XyN_2KcDpt7P3RWpMx2PCvb7YOuzkEMuz1aq68/s1600/18342158_10154592553513811_8072654529594793491_n-1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivw-s6N8NgquNZRsugGB2U8vwf71HV4QRlXPwGlskvZRXMxbyeS945BxMIDqRYYRuOUpS6A3za-T9aCrHuluuP-j9FGy4P6Ij9a5Y48XyN_2KcDpt7P3RWpMx2PCvb7YOuzkEMuz1aq68/s400/18342158_10154592553513811_8072654529594793491_n-1.jpg" width="300" /></a><br />
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It’s always been a trick, having shoes in which you can walk all over town, then deciding that you want to attend a venue where you’ll be dancing and realizing… these shoes I’m wearing… they have rubber soles and they don’t spin worth a damn!<br />
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A few years back I wrote an article about shoes that can transition from dancing to walking without skipping a step. It was all about leather soled classic men’s dress shoes, and who makes the right ones. But after that I took a job that required walking around a concrete floor day in day out and running at times from one factory to another across gravel and mashed down sand. Not the ideal environment for a soft-footed man like myself. It got to a point where I flew to Manhattan on business and realized I was not just limping, I was nearly wanting a wheelchair due to the pain. I’d torn my plantar and my doc said it was from … well running up and down long runways of concrete.<br />
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Apparently you can still dance with a torn plantar as the two things don’t really have anything in connection if you are spinning around on the balls of your feet… you just need more stamina to stay up there and not put your heel down, the heel of a foot being a very important part of walking, but no so much for dancing.<br />
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So I was in Manhattan and walking across the island and decided… yes… sneakers and a suit… if it works for David Tennant as Doctor Who, it can work for me. But it didn’t. No matter what I wore, it was still a torn ligament and pain and staying on the toe of one foot was the rigor of the trip.<br />
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So soon after I returned to Dallas I went to a specialist, and they took a mold of my foot in order to make custom orthotics. These things cost a bit over $400 so they gotta cure the issue -- or so I’d thought. As I waited the month to get the orthotics made, I moved back to California. I was in a boot on my right foot, and on my left I was wearing a lift from a company called Evenup -- If you have a boot on, the lift for the other foot is a necessity as I still have a pang in my hip from wearing that boot before I found the lift. You have to be even!<br />
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The custom orthotics didn’t work (there is such a thing as bad bespoke). Yet, before I even got the orthotics I hunted down every pharmacy and foot specialist device I could, asking what can alleviate my pain. The best option at the start were from Superfeet… they did relieve the issue some, and I give great credit for how smashing they felt versus the old hard surface of leather soled shoe, yet they didn’t take the cake when it came to finding something that was strategically aimed at the exact problem I had, and that was that maddening dot on my heel that, if stepped on wrong, caused agony and an awkward gait e.g. wobbly me.<br />
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So as much as they were okay, they weren’t the solution. They were better than the custom molded orthotics, yet they were still just not the thing to get me from point A to B in style, or even absent of style prior to my injury.<br />
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In-steps the drug store find!<br />
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Put them in your dress shoes and they are frakking amazing. Put them in your sneakers and they are Frelling amazing!<br />
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There are four different versions of the exact same device and I’ve gone through all of the others… some that were the top of their game before these hit the market. Buy them. I looked and looked and found something that looked different than the bunk I was wearing and I thought I should order those. They were a UK brand and I liked the concept because what I read sold me.<br />
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https://www.sofsole.com/product/Plantar_Fascia I never wore them, yet I in desperation was in a Walgreens and saw their Tribalance Orthotic, and to my eye, they looked the same, so I bought a pair. I remind you that I’d gone through all the other insoles thinking they may help, but these were solid. An arch support, a doughnut feel for the heel and just for the heck of it, a little cushion for the ball of the foot. I’d been looking… they were new to the store and I had to have them and they worked. Someone finally figured it out! At least for my issue. Soon after I saw more of the exact same style of orthotic pop into stores. Even Doctor Scholl’s that brand that’s the most common of all made an exact version of what I’d bought as the Walgreens brand.<br />
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Anywho. Much better than the bespoke molded orthotics, at least in my case. <br />
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The finest help for plantar issues!<br />
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I love my feet, and I love yours too. These are exactly the same in what they do and are from all I can see exact replicas of the UK version I saw and read about and understood. And I have all three of these and they are all Brilliant.<br />
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Check them out and tell me what you yourself think. I’m wearing them in my dress shoes out dancing tonight … and walking.<br />
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1. Walgreens Tribalance inserts https://www.walgreens.com/store/c/walgreens-men's-plantar-fasciitis-orthotic-insoles/ID=prod6220766-product?skuId=sku6192680<br />
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2. CVS Plantar Fasciitis orthotics http://www.cvs.com/shop/personal-care/foot-care/inserts-insoles/cvs-health-men-s-plantar-fascia-orthotics-2ct-prodid-982121?skuId=982121<br />
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3. Dr. Scholl’s. https://www.drscholls.com/productsandbrands/tricomfort/<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC1Xo6X1IkekKl_RQJ77Tw_zoG68Clhxt4UKxP8ziITt5SyDcrZ-1oU49MgptKOLogjQugScBlvP9fIYf25LK7Wm5-IXgxNxr8dZ22U6b0x6M0m6yXIxft9aNqAXcMwJKaNA5VBc84-cc/s1600/18424996_10154592553733811_4233678428217441955_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdfcmF8xpIKX9mffFdZWlXDKtUEFpcfZXA6wQ6wElGOC_sAEa9l9r0baiZDw-6TYCj0LvyW1GQG9BVnRYdcNi1noiGh90NzOV1F_iF8uD02IevbW0QoVxfG8V036QORo5ofztFrYCpn-k/s1600/18402592_10154592553713811_8953357588581240476_n.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdfcmF8xpIKX9mffFdZWlXDKtUEFpcfZXA6wQ6wElGOC_sAEa9l9r0baiZDw-6TYCj0LvyW1GQG9BVnRYdcNi1noiGh90NzOV1F_iF8uD02IevbW0QoVxfG8V036QORo5ofztFrYCpn-k/s320/18402592_10154592553713811_8953357588581240476_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC1Xo6X1IkekKl_RQJ77Tw_zoG68Clhxt4UKxP8ziITt5SyDcrZ-1oU49MgptKOLogjQugScBlvP9fIYf25LK7Wm5-IXgxNxr8dZ22U6b0x6M0m6yXIxft9aNqAXcMwJKaNA5VBc84-cc/s320/18424996_10154592553733811_4233678428217441955_n.jpg" width="240" />Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-81320414546162088972017-02-23T02:20:00.000-08:002017-02-23T05:40:24.727-08:00A word to the museums -- SAVE OUR HATS!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAmyMSWzY8TIlcbcjc9Vc7PCznhYp1sWBxDxLSKr2X2xwp7RfjLyw1pqIhwVva0EUnLAVeGqJ1_gxN0IlFrs5qd_QRO21WxWo2oWrS-3_Pml-SQJ1EYA280az6XMoLtI1UWapb2CJVUqQ/s1600/16681684_10154376577403811_4841744407604856488_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: black;"><img border="0" class="" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAmyMSWzY8TIlcbcjc9Vc7PCznhYp1sWBxDxLSKr2X2xwp7RfjLyw1pqIhwVva0EUnLAVeGqJ1_gxN0IlFrs5qd_QRO21WxWo2oWrS-3_Pml-SQJ1EYA280az6XMoLtI1UWapb2CJVUqQ/s640/16681684_10154376577403811_4841744407604856488_n.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></div>
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<br /><span style="font-size: large;"><br />Wendy Ann Rosen<br /><br />She’s a well-known Hollywood makeup artist, but to me, she’s a god-send to hatting’s history. She’s even served Cary Grant a drink once… and she pointed out he was wearing velvet slippers at the time. She’s been wearing hats since she was a child, and never stopped. Over time she began collecting them to the point where she began cataloging the art and boxes of which there are one of each left in some cases. She inundated me with a waterfall of knowledge on all the old boutique brands and designers that once were in the height of demand yet are now forgotten in time due to them being part of an industry that became a shadow of it’s goliath self. And it’s not just the hats… it’s the promotional materials, the catalogs, the displays, the posters, the branded brushes and the giant window ornamentation that would draw the eye of a shop's passerby.<br /><br /><br />She’s on a mission right now to preserve this collection and when it comes to getting the word out, it’s time voices got louder. She looks to catalog all of what she has and build a database that hopefully can showcase all of the brands and styles and what once was common knowledge to some, but now lost knowledge to all. The stories she has… the tales of the old department stores and shops that would just carry accessories. I will go back to hear more and write down more. But this message is just to say, she’s out there. She’s been a magnet for hatting history, milliner history, designer label history. And I hope to see it all carefully preserved and exhibited for the world to see. As she pointed out… the last time she saw a hat on display in a museum… it was just the hat on a stick… no reference to who made it, or images of the inside…. To us, it’s important!</span><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivU-3FvvKu9yeou0cokl6SbOcjKvTVfUcrNggdPkncmKGHZ4nhBZV1BJZ5o0g-HstK3kv8BTj5VU6CU2KVsEpv_TiWPG_aZibElpZdbcIJWFpQye1El4qXrKdioXY0r2CeNaZWggy0A54/s1600/16939186_10154376566398811_7659075117821272085_n.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivU-3FvvKu9yeou0cokl6SbOcjKvTVfUcrNggdPkncmKGHZ4nhBZV1BJZ5o0g-HstK3kv8BTj5VU6CU2KVsEpv_TiWPG_aZibElpZdbcIJWFpQye1El4qXrKdioXY0r2CeNaZWggy0A54/s640/16939186_10154376566398811_7659075117821272085_n.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipylOe0tADKTZgEyshfT88wGq3_INyW_uP2-seM4lxW1aUM77Cy9zAKwgRolylcS-IdCp62XNdRHRG-CCVfSPhRLnzSlkzgaNA8L5I_C5r-Eib3We6OFraS1_etSwI54mz_AbC8SDvlkw/s1600/16938687_10154376576678811_8999717968932445838_n.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipylOe0tADKTZgEyshfT88wGq3_INyW_uP2-seM4lxW1aUM77Cy9zAKwgRolylcS-IdCp62XNdRHRG-CCVfSPhRLnzSlkzgaNA8L5I_C5r-Eib3We6OFraS1_etSwI54mz_AbC8SDvlkw/s640/16938687_10154376576678811_8999717968932445838_n.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7JlrL_zena3lm0FwIlbeFF7mtmju12qHU2zm0KqXL_8KY5_DEdNl84yB5uIpmA2iL9ygEjuPV__0pu7eIhHAH49kvJF7257s5jz8jvP41ckor-I4cp_FLvm_F_JqHGAYOddPUzvQJp0o/s1600/16865175_10154376577543811_7518802106199248695_n.jpg"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7JlrL_zena3lm0FwIlbeFF7mtmju12qHU2zm0KqXL_8KY5_DEdNl84yB5uIpmA2iL9ygEjuPV__0pu7eIhHAH49kvJF7257s5jz8jvP41ckor-I4cp_FLvm_F_JqHGAYOddPUzvQJp0o/s640/16865175_10154376577543811_7518802106199248695_n.jpg" /></a><a 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-->Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-39601702682524857292017-02-02T12:26:00.000-08:002017-02-02T12:26:43.924-08:00J. Crew Ludlow Shoes<div style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px;">
Not about Alden, Allen Edmonds… Johnston and Murphy</div>
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<a href="https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16299242_10154323727373811_4136262934783708985_n.jpg?oh=59235ca79dad71a7a75f1b24843f7dd5&oe=59428445" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Image may contain: shoes" aria-busy="false" border="0" class="spotlight" height="320" src="https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16299242_10154323727373811_4136262934783708985_n.jpg?oh=59235ca79dad71a7a75f1b24843f7dd5&oe=59428445" width="240" /></a>There are a few grand companies still left in the US that classic American shoe.<br />I do wish they would make more ankle boots as I tend to go off roading in my leather souled footwear and there is a big hole in the market when it comes to a good old balmoral boot; It seems everyone jumps right into making the bluchers when it’s just not the same thing -- a tale for another post.</div>
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J. Crew a few years back separated its menswear from its womenswear and when this happened they took the menswear into a very collegial high end old money aesthetic. 60s style fitted corduroy trousers with small embroidered pheasants or dogs, narrow ties with coat of arms looking shields leather dopp kits for the man on the road needing to keep his shaving gear in a properly classic case. With all of this came the shoes as well. Proper shoes… wingtips that were double souled leather with pebble grains and slippery heels. The kind of shoes you wear on an elevator while heading to sit at your desk that has that extra white shirt in the drawer for when you spill your bourbon on yourself before the meeting.</div>
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For the shoes, they went to the most prolific of the American made brands, and that was Alden of New England. One of the last surviving American factory made dress shoe brands, they showed up at the new J.Crew and made a splash to the point where J. Crew began doing special makes of ankle boots and special colors… Now to the reason why I’m writing.</div>
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The Alden shoes retail for nearly $600 when you add the tax. A bit out of most men’s budgets… and for a shoe for a traditional mall store… often something that stands out as a bit out of place. So J. Crew decided to do something within it’their men’s shoes that’s a bit more approachable to the mass market that covets the stoic studying genius look. They made reproductions of the Alden shoes… very close when it comes to design, fit and materials, and sold them for half the price of the Alden shoes.</div>
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<a href="https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16473263_10154323727293811_686525566528437848_n.jpg?oh=18e43cf3886cf585df587fa21df6583e&oe=590AB828" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="Image may contain: shoes and boots" aria-busy="false" border="0" class="spotlight" height="300" src="https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16473263_10154323727293811_686525566528437848_n.jpg?oh=18e43cf3886cf585df587fa21df6583e&oe=590AB828" width="400" /></a>Handcrafted in China.<br />So I bought three pairs.<br />The ankle boots in russet brown, and a black pair and a russet brown pair of the low quarter captoe style.</div>
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Off the bat they look and feel just like Alden shoes. The leather used are said to all be imported to China for the hand making of the shoes and the uppers are very very fine calf skin with very tight pores. Very much like the Alden leathers that take a beautiful shine. The soles are dense and tough like Rendenbach would produce. Hard and so far they appear to be wearing down very slowly without deforming.</div>
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<a href="https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16473655_10154323728138811_5122566220097365727_n.jpg?oh=40372cd15c7fef7fd0ae523c0e735431&oe=591279A9" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="Image may contain: shoes" aria-busy="false" border="0" class="spotlight" height="320" src="https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/16473655_10154323728138811_5122566220097365727_n.jpg?oh=40372cd15c7fef7fd0ae523c0e735431&oe=591279A9" width="240" /></a>The footbed is taking a while to break in. Usually with high end leather soled shoes… Like Alden and Allen Edmonds, there is the leather sole, a bed of cork above that sole you walk on, and a leather footbed on which you stand. The cork sandwiched between after a few wearings helps the footbed take the shape of your foot so you get a custom shape to walk on. These are taking their time so I’m not sure if these have that cork layer or not, they may just take a while to break in because they use a tougher upper layer of leather. The shoes are fully lines in calfskin so your foot slides in easily while wearing socks, and the back of the heel has the rough side out so it grips to your heel and your foot doesn’t slide out while walking.</div>
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The ankle boots have a last (foot shape) with a larger toe box. I like this for the look and for the fact that I have a wide forefoot. The low quarter shoes have a narrower toe box but not too narrow… they look like shoes made in the 1940s and I love them for that reason.</div>
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They have a well placed heel cushion under a thin piece of leather and a combination leather and rubber heel. Being a swing dancer I tend to prefer rubber heels lately because I kinda like being able to put on the brakes while spinning.</div>
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I’m still breaking them all in, but first impressions are that these are like new Aldens. As I’ve written before, I have very fickle feet when it comes to what I wear. The stiffness tends to be a pain and if that goes away I’ll love them a lot more. I know Alden and Allen Edmonds break in faster. They feel very balanced for walking and dancing but I do wish they made them in a wide or E sizing.</div>
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If you want something that is absolutely the finest reproduction of a classic vintage American business shoe, these fit the bill. I’ll dance in them for a while and write a follow-up.</div>
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Questions?</div>
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Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-12813411390387834342016-09-08T23:20:00.003-07:002016-09-08T23:20:24.708-07:00Worn to death, then worn to death.<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJakZvptytkZxCxj9ABJjdnv_Pf-E7hdnRH2WJ2I0hofFPv9VEOa28NKBevXNA-owJLeG7DqES28ZyobmCOAVOjPFxJ3lH4SHxFZMNS017tPqtc_FSCZh7wo39jkUR8oaaOi5AEBTVnM0/s1600/photo.jpg.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJakZvptytkZxCxj9ABJjdnv_Pf-E7hdnRH2WJ2I0hofFPv9VEOa28NKBevXNA-owJLeG7DqES28ZyobmCOAVOjPFxJ3lH4SHxFZMNS017tPqtc_FSCZh7wo39jkUR8oaaOi5AEBTVnM0/s320/photo.jpg.png" width="319" /></a>When I was last in Manhattan I had a little stop to see Susquehanna
Industrial Tool & Die Co. A great western swing band that I<span style="font-family: "MS 明朝","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">’</span>ll
need a proper dance floor on which to dance the next time I see them. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://www.sitanddieco.com/">http://www.sitanddieco.com</a><o:p></o:p></div>
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In the midst of that excursion, I ran into the copywriter
for Brooks Brothers and we got into discussing shirts and how I was happy to
see the return of the unfused version of the button down collar for their Great
Gatsby collection. I wasn<span style="font-family: "MS 明朝","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">’</span>t pleased to see that collection
leave so quickly. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfG9PRT-Hgb9YfyAs5FtfNMNFQyQ3gAaic22yHIPYnCL3Ou_pK22-IMktci_JWCFHT6qvWI_64__dGg1vcVcmSJC0xvihxP303dMuonYklSe7AvD6TK_UOJg8X5BAp5zd08yxp5MM39wQ/s1600/14202642_10153915708538811_6667130651821405805_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfG9PRT-Hgb9YfyAs5FtfNMNFQyQ3gAaic22yHIPYnCL3Ou_pK22-IMktci_JWCFHT6qvWI_64__dGg1vcVcmSJC0xvihxP303dMuonYklSe7AvD6TK_UOJg8X5BAp5zd08yxp5MM39wQ/s320/14202642_10153915708538811_6667130651821405805_n.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Anywho, All of this led me to remembering that about a
decade ago, BB had released a line of shirts that were specifically called
their <span style="font-family: "MS 明朝","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">“</span>Vintage Dress Shirt Collection<span style="font-family: "MS 明朝","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">”</span>.
After seeing them in their catalog, I remember running to my local outlet in
Camarillo California. Knowing that these shirts weren<span style="font-family: MS 明朝, serif;">'</span>t
quite what the masses were into, I found there what I expected and bought every
one that was in my size and continued back now and again to see them trickle
out onto their discount rack. Oh yeah... they had very long tails.<o:p></o:p></div>
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One was a beautiful blue and yellow multi stripe with a three
inch collar, longer than their current collar and it just had a more retro
flare that worked best with a collar bar.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGI_q6twtjssboPUZAMinAoyiyuSN16Fo0LRext65tGuZI9j8XqboRHPSZnqDczk56BOTJgQPXKrD-IIM0hWmTouZko-BcSf3k3H6-QjxRrnFpC-9hiYnv-2RSkNw8LUt98oBeBkZmY20/s1600/IMG_5937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGI_q6twtjssboPUZAMinAoyiyuSN16Fo0LRext65tGuZI9j8XqboRHPSZnqDczk56BOTJgQPXKrD-IIM0hWmTouZko-BcSf3k3H6-QjxRrnFpC-9hiYnv-2RSkNw8LUt98oBeBkZmY20/s320/IMG_5937.jpg" width="240" /></a>Another one had a pink and blue striped body with off white
collar and French cuff. Just again, something that was specifically nuanced to
be a little more from the past than the tedious standards BB was putting on
their shelves at the time<span style="font-family: "MS 明朝","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">…</span> before all the flare came back
into business menswear. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The third shirt in the line<span style="font-family: "MS 明朝","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">…</span> maybe my favorite fabric
yet not my favorite collar was a blue green muted stripe. <o:p></o:p></div>
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That<span style="font-family: "MS 明朝","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">’</span>s<span style="font-family: "MS 明朝","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">…</span> just wanted to say I<span style="font-family: "MS 明朝","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">’</span>ve
loved these shirts and I<span style="font-family: "MS 明朝","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">’</span>m on my last set of them lest I
start replacing the collar and cuffs when these start to fray.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Oh yes, go see the Susquehanna Industrial Tool & Die Co.
I<span style="font-family: "MS 明朝","serif"; mso-ascii-font-family: Cambria; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family: "MS 明朝"; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-fareast;">’</span>m hoping they make a stop in LA before I head back to
New York. They are a riot!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-83929160496756813122016-08-22T06:56:00.001-07:002016-08-22T07:19:52.265-07:00From Fashion to Fad (and back again): A Skim-med History of the Straw Boater Hat<blockquote id="yui_3_16_0_ym19_1_1471872334373_3175" style="margin: 1em;" type="cite">
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<span style="background-color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16pt;"><span style="color: white;">By
Matt Deckard<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16pt;"><span style="color: white;">I've
never been too keen on the boater. Yes, it's made of straw and cool for summer
and came out long before the soft roll up panama, but it's like wearing an
inedible cracker on your head. Although now often viewed as a hat that is
functionally terrible and aesthetically comical, the boater became the standard
summer hat for millions of men around the world in the early 1900s. It
became a staple item in the respectable businessman’s hat wardrobe; in essence,
it was, for a time, the summer version of the bowler.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="background-color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16pt;"><span style="color: white;">Originally,
in the mid 1800s, the boater (Also known as a “Sennet” or “Straw”) used to be a
seafaring hat that was issued to and worn by British Royal Navy sailors during
the summer months. These early boaters were softer than the version we see on
the heads of Harold Lloyd and Fred Astaire in the 1920s and 30s because they
were made to yield somewhat to the forces of wind and water encountered by a
seaman on a long voyage. In its early days keeping the brim flat wasn’t much of
a concern, so you'd see sailor after sailor sporting straw hats with warped
brims. Many Italian gondoliers still sport versions similar to the
original ones worn by British sailors.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br />
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<span style="background-color: black; color: white;"><span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16pt;">As time went by, the boater went from being an item of military
issue, to a fashionable and somewhat formal summer accessory. This is reflected
in Manners for Men (1897), in which Mrs. C. E. Humphry informed her dapper
readers that “For a morning walk in the Park in summer the straw hat, or low
hat and tweed suit, are as correct as the black coat and silk hat.” </span><span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16.0pt;">Around the same time,
English schools and colleges made the boater into a uniform requirement.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16pt;"><span style="color: white;">Clearly,
the boater had successfully made the leap from respectable British military
issue headgear to the smart but cumbersome lacquered and pressed straw halos
you ended up seeing on American luminaries like David Wark Griffith and Calvin
Coolidge, and on businessmen around the Western world.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16pt;"><span style="color: white;">Unsurprisingly,
these hats never had the staying power of more comfortable summer hats. Their
impractical and comical nature was played up by young students ‘skimming’ them
under buses to pass the time (if they were lucky the passing bus would eat the
hat); in the 1920s, boaters were turned into a faddish novelty, as college kids
began pairing them with raccoon coats and pennants at pep rallies. The
farcical side (and thus the end of the more formal application) of this
headwear was echoed in the appropriation of the boater by Vaudevillians and
carnival barkers. Soon enough, you'd see foam versions worn with red, white,
and blue ribbons issued to crowds at political rallies. The seriousness of the
hat had clearly left.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2xVrb8Q-2P9oY_rwrjnjj7DZBY3SKvRs9-rteynx6mbYfoA8byl6dRevxeZBVoAif1g5o6jUiPnSJdS_W82fB3HAXsjT81x2bQHAQXkPjd2802Gn2gI3qPYOIavHzrAcnFRmdCqpjWU/s1600/tumblr_m0a31oRqSU1r91qw7o1_500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx2xVrb8Q-2P9oY_rwrjnjj7DZBY3SKvRs9-rteynx6mbYfoA8byl6dRevxeZBVoAif1g5o6jUiPnSJdS_W82fB3HAXsjT81x2bQHAQXkPjd2802Gn2gI3qPYOIavHzrAcnFRmdCqpjWU/s320/tumblr_m0a31oRqSU1r91qw7o1_500.jpg" width="210" /></a><span style="background-color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16pt;"><span style="color: white;">If
it had had more functionality than fashionability, perhaps the boater would
have had as long a run as the Panama hats that you can still find at your local
department store today. Unlike its winter felt counterparts, the bowler,
which originated as a hard gamekeeper’s hat that can be molded to a cranium to
perfection with steam, or the soft fedora that's an offshoot of the comfortable
slouch hat worn in the field of battle, the boater requires that your head be
the shape of the hat or you’re in for an ill fit. It is stiff and has no give.
If you try to alter the shape to fit your head, you tend to warp the brim.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16pt;"><span style="background-color: black; color: white;">And
yet, now I like it. I like it because nobody else is wearing it. It
stands out on the street corner. Although shunned by well heeled men decades
ago and thus best worn with a slightly irreverent air, I find it adds an
unexpected jauntiness to a well-tailored suit. In 2016, it can give your
look a panache that will certainly make you stand out amongst a sea of
businessmen on a crowded summer street.</span><span style="background-color: white;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-58682838271091025522016-06-08T17:08:00.000-07:002017-02-23T02:29:21.745-08:00DESIGNING STETSON<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbnATJdJ2RyebKGSFvOjEnwCWyRXI96Y1Ks97T3CyySOLg0Gf3osSbSwy-qmh1cZZjXwKnXUDc4Hx55X66uyYbhNiLLaTvdSZzL0CUi3Z7BHtUzWiSKgB9Pa9YjCrfx69pslZbmg1Qees/s1600/1914567_10153366291013811_1002427291442009226_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbnATJdJ2RyebKGSFvOjEnwCWyRXI96Y1Ks97T3CyySOLg0Gf3osSbSwy-qmh1cZZjXwKnXUDc4Hx55X66uyYbhNiLLaTvdSZzL0CUi3Z7BHtUzWiSKgB9Pa9YjCrfx69pslZbmg1Qees/s320/1914567_10153366291013811_1002427291442009226_n.jpg" width="320" /></a><b><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">I came to Texas with a
mission, to redefine the something I love, to figure out how to pass that
passion to everyone.</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">From the outset, inspired by the past and encouraged by my friends, I
was able to bring back brand defining styles using the original machinery with
the original hat making techniques, many dating back to the 1920s and before.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">With my own archives, I applied elements that I loved, to redefine
iconic styles to suit the fashion of the modern day. I installed in the line,
pieces that could fight the trend of fast fashion, to be that item you could
put on your head knowing it added rather than took away.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">I reintroduced a line of women’s hats and watched as more and more
styles populated the lineup, and I was proud that the factory could visibly see
a change happening when the floor that was covered in racks of cowboy hats day
in day out, turned into a sea of red as Marvel’s Agent Carter hit the airwaves,
atop her head was a Stetson.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">For the 150<sup>th</sup> anniversary of the company, I designed a roundtable
of the finest quality pieces that could be produced, knowing that these were
the same steps that over a century of Stetson master hatters used to make the
pronounced, yet subtly elegant look of America’s hat. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">I willed into being and negotiated the return of the Iconic Manhattan
Neon Stetson sign that was, and now again is, above JJ Hatcenter on Fifth
Avenue.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Exotic locations, extraordinary situations, one day I was discussing the
toquila palm crop with the Ecuadorian consulate while driving to work, the
next, I was in Manhattan being tracked down by an Italian man wanting to sweep
me up in his SUV, just so I could explain the fall lineup. Videoconferences
with Germany at 2am, all-nighters to clean up my Japanese business etiquette
because the clients are arriving early…<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">I’ve made new friends here, I’ve had great adventures, and Big Tex Under
the shade of his Cowboy hat has looked down at me and smiled. I went to the
rodeos, to the barn dances and I got to know the kings and queens of the outlaw
country scene.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "helvetica"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">I came to Texas with a
mission, to redefine the something I love, to figure out how to pass that
passion to everyone.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">I feel that’s what I’ve done. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Of all the endeavors I’ve set my sights on, this one, being the Creative
Director of Stetson’s dress hats was one of the most fulfilling. Now, I need to
move to my next adventure, and that begins by steeping myself in my hometown of Los Angeles. Reconnecting with my closest, and taking in that warmth of
what is my city.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Yours in hatting, <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "helvetica"; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Joseph C. Brandstetter<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-19899366242219386112015-02-23T00:04:00.002-08:002015-02-23T00:09:06.152-08:00The February 2015 post about ties and more.<div class="MsoNormal">
I’ve really been exercising my reading habit more than my
writing habit lately.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Here we go again. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="http://ttrcrm80.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">ADJUSTABLE COSTUME</a></div>
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Kazuki Kodaka has done a few things I wish I could do when
it comes to this new world of fashion where we are continuing in the footsteps
of the classic tailors that knew and believed in durability and making clothing
that was formed around the anatomy of the wearer, and not founded on the fast
food idea of fashion that has been in charge for the last few decades. I’ve
been admiring his work from the US for a few years now and have to say… it’s
excellent when it comes to getting it right. I’ve always been a fan of the
belted back suit that accentuates the waist of the wearer. I’ve worked with a
local tailor to get this look right. But when it comes to cloth used and that
classic flattering drape from the days of old, Adjustable Costume has nailed
it. I’ve recently become the proud owner of a pair of the most complicated
suspenders a man could ever own, but being a suspender wearer, they are perhaps
the most comfortable I will ever own… especially since they are engineered for
the high waisted trouser I wear. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I’ll post more pics in following posts. But for now I wanted
to showcase the necktie. It’s a repro of a classic early 1930s unlined and
folded raw piece of silk. Something that would just get caught in the wind and
flutter about. Nothing like the modern day overly heavy ties you find at your
local high end department store. It’s something that is built around the
romance. There is a <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>luxury in the
simplicity.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br />
On the left is the Adjustable Costume Octopus tie. On the right is an original 1930s brocade tie. My compliments go to Kazuki for getting it right when it comes to the details and the construction. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjegoxXH7h6vX6C9amqLzDBGahyphenhyphen0p-9XS0eX7nZmveCjt7MjkAaTiXrnV5nqP8QLS2KGMwxelYQjA65-T2rU6Ao8cuc4Dcpi-nnuqmPPSy2_Gqsn_uVmfXA2tI0e88DmtOTQAOFZZ8Zf6o/s1600/IMG_5572.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjegoxXH7h6vX6C9amqLzDBGahyphenhyphen0p-9XS0eX7nZmveCjt7MjkAaTiXrnV5nqP8QLS2KGMwxelYQjA65-T2rU6Ao8cuc4Dcpi-nnuqmPPSy2_Gqsn_uVmfXA2tI0e88DmtOTQAOFZZ8Zf6o/s1600/IMG_5572.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.smwholesaleusa.com/a-2-aviator-jacket-story" target="_blank">McColgan for Hollywood</a><br />
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On another note; A fun acquisition on my part… A few years
back I sold off a lot of my old wears, one of my prized pieces was an A-2
leather jacket that I’d wear on occasion. I did love that jacket yet
circumstances required I part with it. In the hunt for a replacement, I thought
I’d stick with my aesthetic of old school workwear that’s’ been trending as of
late… and in that vein of though I needed something that was properly accurate
to the uniform standards of the originals made in the 1930s and 40s.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The Steve McColgan clothing company has been historically
accurate jackets and gear for decades. Whether it be for Saving Private Ryan,
or Band of Brothers, he’s been the man on call when it comes to making it look
right… because it is right. I would have nothing less. I’ve seen the works from
the competition like Eastman Leather or Real McCoys, the competition for WWII
Americana is growing, but there is nothing Like a classic made in the USA A-2
that’s just like those our flyboys wore in their planes during the war.
Something that you’d find in a surplus store in the 50s if you were lucky.
Anywho… the jacket is still in break in mode and I’ll be beating it up on a
daily basis on the cooler days in the Stetson hat factory.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<span id="goog_1568961897"></span><span id="goog_1568961898"></span><br /></div>
<a href="http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blogger.com%2Fblogger.g%3FblogID%3D2965542000540113027%23editor%2Ftarget%3Dpost%3BpostID%3D1989936624221938611%3BonPublishedMenu%3Dposts%3BonClosedMenu%3Dposts%3BpostNum%3D0%3Bsrc%3Dpostname&media=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com%2Fgadgets%2Fproxy%3Furl%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252F2.bp.blogspot.com%252F-utPpe1YWJ60%252FVOrbyfstf3I%252FAAAAAAAAAi8%252F0vm36dLL7TI%252Fs1600%252FIMG_5572.jpg%26container%3Dblogger%26gadget%3Da%26rewriteMime%3Dimage%252F*&xm=h&xv=sa1.35&description=" style="background-color: transparent; background-image: url(data:image/png; border: none; cursor: pointer; display: none; height: 20px; left: 233px; opacity: 0.85; position: absolute; top: 468px; width: 40px; z-index: 8675309;"></a><a href="http://www.pinterest.com/pin/create/extension/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blogger.com%2Fblogger.g%3FblogID%3D2965542000540113027%23editor%2Ftarget%3Dpost%3BpostID%3D1989936624221938611%3BonPublishedMenu%3Dposts%3BonClosedMenu%3Dposts%3BpostNum%3D0%3Bsrc%3Dpostname&media=https%3A%2F%2Fimages-blogger-opensocial.googleusercontent.com%2Fgadgets%2Fproxy%3Furl%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252F2.bp.blogspot.com%252F-utPpe1YWJ60%252FVOrbyfstf3I%252FAAAAAAAAAi8%252F0vm36dLL7TI%252Fs1600%252FIMG_5572.jpg%26container%3Dblogger%26gadget%3Da%26rewriteMime%3Dimage%252F*&xm=h&xv=sa1.35&description=" style="background-color: transparent; background-image: url(data:image/png; border: none; cursor: pointer; display: none; height: 20px; left: 233px; opacity: 0.85; position: absolute; top: 468px; width: 40px; z-index: 8675309;"></a>Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-9395165923238436502014-07-26T13:55:00.001-07:002014-07-26T14:33:14.770-07:00It's all in the details: Manhattan 2014<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhstf9SAGVxEPgOfKlew7N9ZUauuu5kdDbF34WfQab08Tf87uUtl3ZD328ZAzmAbpzQ49YgHz0oL0TOAafocCtt7BY9Fw6Eh1VxfiiZbSnbf3tOm4uO0DzNeIhoPLt94UYx5aFsaOLNLcA/s1600/10275329_10152281106418811_4150327346571214408_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhstf9SAGVxEPgOfKlew7N9ZUauuu5kdDbF34WfQab08Tf87uUtl3ZD328ZAzmAbpzQ49YgHz0oL0TOAafocCtt7BY9Fw6Eh1VxfiiZbSnbf3tOm4uO0DzNeIhoPLt94UYx5aFsaOLNLcA/s1600/10275329_10152281106418811_4150327346571214408_o.jpg" height="212" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Ignacio Quiles, Dandy Wellington, Matt Deckard</td></tr>
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I’m continuously neglecting putting pen to paper or even
fingers to keyboard. Something I’ve shied away from for the last few years…
just a lot of trauma I guess. Best hopes dashed on some fronts and losing both
my parents in quick succession… Just not the recipe for taking time to sit and
concentrate in the ways I’ve done in the past.<o:p></o:p></div>
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To the blog (We still use that word? It’s quite groggy).<o:p></o:p></div>
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I went to Manhattan to work out some hats and attend MRket
menswear show with my fellow chaps from Stetson. That may be the important
part, and bits on hats and hat care and hat creation are often my strong suit,
but that information will come with future posts and videos. What I want to
talk about is the sharing of knowledge and the fun that was had after all those
hours pounding the pavement while wearing various pairs of shoes. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I met and hung out with many interesting and captivating New
Yorkers…<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu59RPtWvXHuirRj5yN_Q2GRnxwgC8UgtBe-_IxjgLdM9ByIEqk6CEqFAq09RtaBdy6He_7c1mfOkq5Q2ZDXQtidnzjrdbZxZit7PN9hdczdsDhmpzewkxgg5k48Q7BF7wlHADq2V_RCA/s1600/10458711_10152268043663811_3044259107720046479_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu59RPtWvXHuirRj5yN_Q2GRnxwgC8UgtBe-_IxjgLdM9ByIEqk6CEqFAq09RtaBdy6He_7c1mfOkq5Q2ZDXQtidnzjrdbZxZit7PN9hdczdsDhmpzewkxgg5k48Q7BF7wlHADq2V_RCA/s1600/10458711_10152268043663811_3044259107720046479_n.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me and Gibson Frazier</td></tr>
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Let’s start with <a href="http://www.gibsonfrazier.com/gibsonfrazier/GIBSON_FRAZIER.html" target="_blank">Gibson Frazier</a>. I didn’t expect to be
surprised by the intellect, but you’re always going to be taken a back when you
meet in person, someone that just has that “it” quality that used to be often
talked about, but is rarely defined. He’s a playwright that often does cameos on
the big screen and television, but primarily has worked at the keyboard writing
breakthrough artistic pieces… newer ones having strong online kickstarter
backing. I first learned of him through a movie he put together in 1999 called
Man of the Century where his character lived his affinity for the past and was
a man of the 1920s from hat to spats, living in the world of the 90s. You need
to see it. That’s acting chops put to their test. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We met at the Norwood, a classic social club that looked exactly
like what you’d imagine Manhattan would have, with a ledger to sign in at the
door to boot. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Great art on the walls, small tables with conversations
happening and someone to come by offering a cocktail every time your glass
looked as though the ice were all you had left. We sat, talked sartorial past
and future, art and acting, and just had a very good conversation. It was (to
use my California wording) awesome.<o:p></o:p></div>
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That was one of the greater highlights of the visit, but
there were many others, like meeting with Rose Callihan and Kellfire Bray. Rose
is the photographer that catalogued the nuances of the dandy set of today in
the new book <a href="http://dandyportraits.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">I am Dandy</a>. A book that is in a way the culmination of the well-dressed
movement that’s been coming back to this world, a world that has had a serious
bout with being lackadaisical toward dressing in general, and this is the book
showcasing the generals leading the resistance. We met at The Rum House where
luckily enough Jesse Gelber and Michael Arenella had already setup shop owning
the place with some intoxicating swing and jazz music. The talk was intellectual
and humorous, going from adventures to see some of these fellows, to tales of
the nightlife in New York. Kellfire was a man with great gravitas with a tight
grasp on fit and detail when the conversation went to suits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You two were fun, and Rose… I need my book
signed!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAlFjXGffprGRUdKkTa2FrvaU35qXF8ir_vwGqxxVT_Q-XxasQNlNjdhf8OLqVQZrsN2LRSigc61CVosk40HA7-2aM-1ug2fZUtoqRopkLTgKKTrbTgDtTDvx8APKDLeCLGXpmjZrS8VQ/s1600/10524330_10152279464123811_190192755824168829_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAlFjXGffprGRUdKkTa2FrvaU35qXF8ir_vwGqxxVT_Q-XxasQNlNjdhf8OLqVQZrsN2LRSigc61CVosk40HA7-2aM-1ug2fZUtoqRopkLTgKKTrbTgDtTDvx8APKDLeCLGXpmjZrS8VQ/s1600/10524330_10152279464123811_190192755824168829_n.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhijwMmDQ0P_U64bSbs1EyR9IgZCtX1MFVxEZktyj8zxYN54dyTa8o49-qTepR1RY7NWEEZ4LcPOoAke4tfRmbGDhAizCuW6hMrjYnHHOBh9_hd_sVfUX8mHfCKIfND4kmcv9eXF2wS8Y/s1600/10519772_10152279464178811_7075344554622049030_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhijwMmDQ0P_U64bSbs1EyR9IgZCtX1MFVxEZktyj8zxYN54dyTa8o49-qTepR1RY7NWEEZ4LcPOoAke4tfRmbGDhAizCuW6hMrjYnHHOBh9_hd_sVfUX8mHfCKIfND4kmcv9eXF2wS8Y/s1600/10519772_10152279464178811_7075344554622049030_n.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rose Calahan sporting a prototype Stetson</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I don’t want to fill this blog with too much to read about,
as most people expect a video nowadays… but I absolutely must say meeting <a href="http://www.dandywellington.com/" target="_blank">DandyWellington</a> … well, when it comes to getting the classics perfect, he’s an
expert. Not just in dress, but also in playing the period music he’s mastered.
His mode of dress is as suave as his voice, and his skill on the dance floor…
well he looked just as at home there as well. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Ignacio Quiles (<a href="http://sartorialpairings.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">Sartorial Pairings</a>); It takes a lifetime of
riffing on classics to make those classics look balanced and acceptable to many
that just have an eye for now. He’s perfect at it. As we walked one of the
halls of the latest New York menswear trade shows I lost a suspender button
somewhere along the way… he replaced it using a pin from one of the venders
tables. Not just quick thinking, quick styling. The look after made me wonder
why I had a button sewn on there in the first place. Later that Monday we had a
profound conversation on how clubs featuring bands should turn down their
ambient music between sets so that patrons can take a breather from focusing on
the entertainment to talk.<o:p></o:p></div>
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What else to say… Had a lovely conversation with <a href="http://www.claymoreshop.com/meetourstaff.html" target="_blank">CharleyMarcuse</a> and <a href="http://handcrafttailor.com/" target="_blank">Rory Duffy</a>, an amazing tailor and winner of the Savile Row Golden
Sheers award. Much about cutting jacket to be open or cutting them to be closed,
At the time we were getting more and more tired as we went to a local Irish pub
to continue talking about the slightest minutiae on fitting the hardest to fit
individuals when it comes to bespoke tailoring.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-VX6CxlsNvh9QwX55RgFepNl7vbU3MZMlYBRVwRzVmm1jZINDWaWgmEcrLlGXkvr1jd52Oh9kPbdMbMmzMZhfpthox6QQGqJutB-SHQAuEjS6co0QKZaBiXDBxnpNhyphenhyphen-mztg8NVlFeQ/s1600/10557194_10152279463863811_7466226883065303304_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd-VX6CxlsNvh9QwX55RgFepNl7vbU3MZMlYBRVwRzVmm1jZINDWaWgmEcrLlGXkvr1jd52Oh9kPbdMbMmzMZhfpthox6QQGqJutB-SHQAuEjS6co0QKZaBiXDBxnpNhyphenhyphen-mztg8NVlFeQ/s1600/10557194_10152279463863811_7466226883065303304_n.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me swinging with Gin Minsky</td></tr>
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Thank you for all the dances <a href="http://www.ginminsky.com/" target="_blank">Gin Minsky</a>. Meeting Bernard
Delgado and Jack Newcastle is always captivating conversation about the best of
what is New Yorks Nightlife. And to Laura, our Archivist at Stetson. I don't know how many hours we dug through the history and talked the state of clothing in general, but it was all smashing to see and learn and know.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkcUrJ9PJ_R4eNQ_P6Vp9P77B5MvmPTHSaI52gAWd-rn8Cme2bFAVQ8aW5RVbhsRca_G1tO1CysLZWk4XNj31itrwNSsvIw_s7bxvBgsdSOv7BNY99Cki8g6cRWbvL6CO1d4FwpVtkI-E/s1600/10488214_10152279463703811_6441036096440180655_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkcUrJ9PJ_R4eNQ_P6Vp9P77B5MvmPTHSaI52gAWd-rn8Cme2bFAVQ8aW5RVbhsRca_G1tO1CysLZWk4XNj31itrwNSsvIw_s7bxvBgsdSOv7BNY99Cki8g6cRWbvL6CO1d4FwpVtkI-E/s1600/10488214_10152279463703811_6441036096440180655_n.jpg" height="320" width="304" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woman looking uncomfortable on bicycle while wearing awesome helmet</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgB3KR0CqKN4jiXo3t0fxaAilbpZsSawXpIHLNlq7jqJV9s-7gQmWEBLCZACIF6Ovqzmekvet6eL926jOL9sj3C6OsqOO3EzgTvZXxySDvthiH1SykLU7aKw9bxzh7vtox0CUQLk3B_dE/s1600/10440692_10152279464253811_8432589326893253570_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgB3KR0CqKN4jiXo3t0fxaAilbpZsSawXpIHLNlq7jqJV9s-7gQmWEBLCZACIF6Ovqzmekvet6eL926jOL9sj3C6OsqOO3EzgTvZXxySDvthiH1SykLU7aKw9bxzh7vtox0CUQLk3B_dE/s1600/10440692_10152279464253811_8432589326893253570_n.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Laura Kimsey looking smashing</td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGxDUKQHmjjABJWBe5iLyXaO4_TYxf_GGmwmtVWkiAZOGEwYsLIg5pNd8V0Eb1eSXrN53UBHlWcEvdqSAfaWMei-Tt2r8YIdK6r6hwfyip9wUJsBiKMCvrdjeoHzDpuUrmttmdw4cmcu0/s1600/10460705_10152279464493811_8389125662521446681_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGxDUKQHmjjABJWBe5iLyXaO4_TYxf_GGmwmtVWkiAZOGEwYsLIg5pNd8V0Eb1eSXrN53UBHlWcEvdqSAfaWMei-Tt2r8YIdK6r6hwfyip9wUJsBiKMCvrdjeoHzDpuUrmttmdw4cmcu0/s1600/10460705_10152279464493811_8389125662521446681_n.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When you go to New York and you want to swing dance… see George Gee!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguSpG8IZgmmp6IKlSzEZwKHgUOmJ9RKiTAtnv5TKBm3NXUdJNtKAVzyJ2Uh27t37OzPvoINiO-8mjy0ZPEmJoDZtQwKtQojSw8Y7_9aw4Rf7F14t8CzdeZ4nCJI_HpAuwv3vpGxQeoBPk/s1600/10552452_10152279465313811_1870036241581840629_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguSpG8IZgmmp6IKlSzEZwKHgUOmJ9RKiTAtnv5TKBm3NXUdJNtKAVzyJ2Uh27t37OzPvoINiO-8mjy0ZPEmJoDZtQwKtQojSw8Y7_9aw4Rf7F14t8CzdeZ4nCJI_HpAuwv3vpGxQeoBPk/s1600/10552452_10152279465313811_1870036241581840629_n.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dandy being Dandy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghppSiH2bJOBtTIq7Lb6-5cdhdUD4cwoGYU_qIWWebdlob5k2wOVdeDKogrDaaI4HyR1VLjnDTT6qtoD1lxPhnqQrqA3BF4GqIU2y_4vFqQ55tQaqJDpqtlab4NZ4sZ_exWGJ6VopljAM/s1600/10526033_10152279465113811_3885317903834501414_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghppSiH2bJOBtTIq7Lb6-5cdhdUD4cwoGYU_qIWWebdlob5k2wOVdeDKogrDaaI4HyR1VLjnDTT6qtoD1lxPhnqQrqA3BF4GqIU2y_4vFqQ55tQaqJDpqtlab4NZ4sZ_exWGJ6VopljAM/s1600/10526033_10152279465113811_3885317903834501414_n.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Michael Davis… We need to talk more about suits!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4t0IvB_OFCASPQPee0TgpozajGzErqS1iULlCK_CWcpdxGC2vEeDlydKkbyxmGv2TPRNTdKWcsMliaZIE-yaGc_y2HkDzL9sO3R99dlLkgsAGb2x6tROjz730XIWDRZEWfhnAGH7K2Lk/s1600/10491113_10152270191943811_7039679678923722448_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4t0IvB_OFCASPQPee0TgpozajGzErqS1iULlCK_CWcpdxGC2vEeDlydKkbyxmGv2TPRNTdKWcsMliaZIE-yaGc_y2HkDzL9sO3R99dlLkgsAGb2x6tROjz730XIWDRZEWfhnAGH7K2Lk/s1600/10491113_10152270191943811_7039679678923722448_n.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Now from Dallas… Matt Deckard.<br />
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Oh… by the by, check out the new Stetson hats at <a href="http://www.porkpiehatters.com/" target="_blank">JJ hats</a>!<o:p></o:p></div>
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Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-39807250790878522062014-04-27T21:20:00.002-07:002014-05-02T00:11:20.399-07:00Respecting Hollywood's Spectacles <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Shoes, trousers, jacket vest, shirt, tie... all of these items are important; Hats too, Yet none of those things are as important as the glasses you put on your face. </div>
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When I originally decided to wear the wire rimmed P3 style seen in the images below, I did so a bit out of fandom of the Indiana Jones look sported by Harrison Ford, and, a bit more out of the fact that I hadn't really seen a pair of glasses that just suited my own long oval face shape nearly as well. </div>
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The P3 style frame is a circle but with three points pushed out making in slightly triangular. The military actually started using shapes like this over the traditionally round frames issued to troops in the 1920s and 1930s due to the fact that the shape kept the lenses from spinning. If the wearer had a astigmatism correction, a correction that is meant to bend the light entering the eye so, the P3 was just better than a circle which unfortunately easliy allowed the lens to spin, nullifying the correction's effectiveness. But enough about the shape...</div>
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Hollywood keeps using the darn things over and over and over again. The particarlar go to brand is that from Berkshire Chase in London. A gold coated wire rimmed style with a brown mottled celluloid that circles the lenses and part of the arms. </div>
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It's just a quite accommodating style. Very timeless. I decided to go with them myself about 17 years ago when most people were wearing glasses that were rimless floating lenses with titanium arms. Glasses that were nearly invisible on the wearers face. I've grown up wearing glasses, they accentuated your identity, and to have something that was there and hiding yet not wasn't what I was into, so I went with the Beaufort P3 from Berkshire Chase particularly because they stood out at the time. Nowadays oddly enough my glasses look like background when seen around eyewear wearers with their thick black Zylonite frames. </div>
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That's all for now. Keep an eye out and you'll see these from scene to scene. </div>
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Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-29655051611361783852013-12-09T23:02:00.000-08:002013-12-10T00:00:26.610-08:00Flattering laces flat: A tail of strapping on your shoes with a touch (just a touch) of old school panache<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<br /></div>
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Through history there have been silk laces, flat cotton
laces, waxed flat cotton laces, flat nylon laces, round laces with a nylon core
and much much more… Oh and buckles too. When I started wearing dress shoes
several years back. The primary lace sold in stores for the plain black or
brown dress shoe was the plain black or brown round waxed cotton shoelace that
usually had a nylon core for strength. Now, they are fine for shoes… always in
style, but for me they just don’t have that certain sense of … well you know,
retro grandpa chic that’s just a little unique and what the general masses
aren’t wearing. I’m not too eccentric with my wears, but I do like to tweak the
details to just a little more outside the box of the regular guy in a suit and
tie<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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A return to the flat, waxed cotton shoelace<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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I was quite enamored with old shoe ads in Esquire and Life
magazines from the 1930s and absolutely had to emulate the look. Clean,
dashing, flat and different were the laces on shoes style that were common for
the last 100 years. When I decided to change up my style to match the laces I
saw in the old ads, I found it was quite the challenge. Flat laces had just
fallen out of style. I can guess why with my own experiences; through time,
trial and error with different laces. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Flat laces that are all cotton tend to break down a lot
faster than the current issue round lace with nylon core. In the early 1950s
the US military kept with flat laces that were made of nylon for a short time
for dress shoe wear, but those laces tend to <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>just slide out of their knots so the US
military also followed the public and went to the round cotton with nylon core
laces. <o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
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But I still wanted the classic flat waxed all cotton, and…
well they were damned hard to find. I’d frequent the South Coast Plaza mall and
order special make Allen Edmonds now and again and constantly ask there about
such laces, and at the Alden shop and check online and everywhere else that
looked like they’d have an inkling of classic cobbling to their works until I
walked into a John Lobb shoe store. They had the laces on their shoes and right there
and then I asked to buy a handful of brown and black flat laces. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I’ve gone through all those laces as they do break rather
easily, but they evoke a panache that I don’t think can be matched by just a
plain round lace.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Over the last several years we’ve seen a return of more and
more shoe designs from the early 20<sup>th</sup> century. Lots of spectators and
ankle boots and now also, the flat waxed lace. There are a lot of unwaxed ones
out there as well that are quite thick and wide and don’t really look in place
on a dress shoe, but I’m happy we now have options.<o:p></o:p></div>
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If You’d like to get a pair I still suggest John Lobb and
now Allen Edmonds as they have shoes in their lineup that require such laces. <o:p></o:p></div>
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A pair of Buzz Rickson officer shoe reproductions I purchased along with extra laces (in stumbling Japanese while in Tokyo). Unwaxed flat cotton</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmX3K6-oeHYKa1wx3ACtua2CDqMwZJwr-ybOLZmm4rfcgVX5jZ_f5FS_Z5Sjrz1rQxDxhSVLocQb8spIGVdnlaA-TJ08rOpuTaT_dpQOoYyUfqOhUxPcbHjO185hS2lLZTRR5onALjpqQ/s1600/IMG_7762-vi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmX3K6-oeHYKa1wx3ACtua2CDqMwZJwr-ybOLZmm4rfcgVX5jZ_f5FS_Z5Sjrz1rQxDxhSVLocQb8spIGVdnlaA-TJ08rOpuTaT_dpQOoYyUfqOhUxPcbHjO185hS2lLZTRR5onALjpqQ/s320/IMG_7762-vi.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Special Make Allen Edmonds with their waxed flat laces from John Lobb<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaMNoi9c9qf7p2Z9b8-4aC7BIlN7A3wDZn75i2uwDnhAstUaUwbJf1ejQS58AzaCGe39Fp20xWDLSf1UVPlONnbrB-ih1FHxf5fSFp28EY5AQ2VQiG5iLEiYeZpkVGQQ8yiuuHXlvX0A/s1600/IMG_2044-vi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjaMNoi9c9qf7p2Z9b8-4aC7BIlN7A3wDZn75i2uwDnhAstUaUwbJf1ejQS58AzaCGe39Fp20xWDLSf1UVPlONnbrB-ih1FHxf5fSFp28EY5AQ2VQiG5iLEiYeZpkVGQQ8yiuuHXlvX0A/s320/IMG_2044-vi.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<!--EndFragment-->Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-79223371512773963272013-11-30T13:43:00.002-08:002013-11-30T14:49:15.671-08:00Walk softly and... well it begins with that.<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I know... a lot of people have been asking me about my work at Stetson... that's coming... a lot has happened since I worked on set for Home and Family and a few other shows, but the biggest change will be revealed in future posts.</div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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Now for shoes.</div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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I picked up a pair of Cole Haan Lunarlon wingtips not too
long ago and… well they are the ideal shoes when it comes to comfort and looks
for a classic wingtip. The patina is built in so you don’t have to worry about
adding polish over a period of years. They aren’t your typical leather soled
shoes, they do have a twist, and the twist tends to be what upsets the stalwarts
when it comes to a classic style. They are sneakers that absolutely pass the
test of hitting the town as a classic dress shoe; the future shoe that I have
always wanted. With my soft feet I’ve often had to live the life of wearing a
dress shoe for dancing and lots of walking, but when the time hit to travel I’d
run to my sneakers as my feat aren’t warhorse enough to take on leather to
pavement day after day. These shoes fix the issue. They look as grand as any of
my leather soled shine-able shoes, with only a wet wipe of the surface (sacrilege
I know) to make them presentable at any event. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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It may be 2013, and sticklers of the old may often surround
me when it comes to where I go and how I dress, but in the end we live in 2013,
and style knows no bounds… but comfort for me will always be king as long as
it carries the style I love.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Check them out; tell me what you think of the look. I’m
getting more before they stop making them… that’s what tends to happen when I
love something that can be bought.<o:p></o:p></div>
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At the request of Professor Timothy Doran... here are the shoes. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2raOJOnoAfvGcWeTpa42bmyJHBe1q2AKskjZk2EidhBkFslaT4LWJ8NGbYpNOl476rZ9I2DaI6lEKF_akyao6RahpmDc7RjUl76YMCuhU1pGOXpOWkaUoMsotSb0-usmuQjAQIJhDVPU/s1600/Cole+Haan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2raOJOnoAfvGcWeTpa42bmyJHBe1q2AKskjZk2EidhBkFslaT4LWJ8NGbYpNOl476rZ9I2DaI6lEKF_akyao6RahpmDc7RjUl76YMCuhU1pGOXpOWkaUoMsotSb0-usmuQjAQIJhDVPU/s320/Cole+Haan.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Living it up in LA, Dallas and Manhattan... Talk to you soon.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqtmU-LKmxvFaNA9zW19S8v91PhgaOXPZCHgxIcCJoqKKBoNeTjs-eyEzmr-XN3no3KqaVsP_lS5n1C8perNT6IM05NLg8Hpm3-mxCR0tWlVQwNBgJ34o1QwVsSr0Ij2o_YSpRM1dMss8/s1600/1463438_499275390179668_57767180_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqtmU-LKmxvFaNA9zW19S8v91PhgaOXPZCHgxIcCJoqKKBoNeTjs-eyEzmr-XN3no3KqaVsP_lS5n1C8perNT6IM05NLg8Hpm3-mxCR0tWlVQwNBgJ34o1QwVsSr0Ij2o_YSpRM1dMss8/s320/1463438_499275390179668_57767180_n.jpg" width="212" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<!--EndFragment-->Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-50698649272635733202013-10-05T13:44:00.000-07:002013-10-05T13:53:46.500-07:00FOR THOSE WHO CAME IN LATE...<br />
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">There is always a great experience gained from travel, especially when it’s to far off places. This time, the place isn’t too far off, being in the middle of the US, but the experience is more interesting than many past short distance travels as it has taken me to a state that is quite ensconced in its own traditions and styles that easily make it unique and very interesting.</span></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I’m in Dallas, Texas and have a position that requires a lot of study and lots of travel, but more on that in upcoming installments. </span></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Since I’ve been away from LA, I’ve seen vintage clothing expert Marc Chevalier take up the charge of the LA Tweed Pub Crawl. This one approaching will be the 4th in the line and one not to be missed as they tend to get bigger and bigger each year. Take your tweed and some comfortabke shoes. </span></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; line-height: 16px;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: small; line-height: 16px;">Friday, November 15, 2013</span></div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; line-height: 16px;">It begins at 7:00 pm.</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; line-height: 16px;">I believe it's beginning at that place where I've had many a French Dip Sandwich, Cole's in Downtown LA.</span></span><br />
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/1375969622640021/" target="_blank"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: yellow; font-size: small;">Fourth Annual Los Angeles Tweed Pub Crawl</span></a></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Times; font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I'll attend if I can make the trip work with my schedule.</span></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Locally, I’ve joined forces with Matt Tolentino, Danielle Bennignus, and Tom Pecina to form the Art Deco Society of Dallas. The center of the Art Deco scene in the the Americas (Geographically speaking). </span></div>
<div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Event-wise we've already successfully shown to a large audience, Top Hat from 1937 starring Fred and Ginger at the Texas Theater... this was fallowed by a grand concert from the Singapore Slingers. Many more events are to follow including a good old (new) knickerbocker mini golf later this month. </span></div>
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/ArtDecoSocietyOfDallas" target="_blank"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: yellow; font-size: small;">Art Deco Society of Dallas</span></a></div>
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Anywho, that's a quick latest filler for the blog. Now to get back to rifling through piles of cloth, felt and ribbon.</div>
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From Dallas, Sometimes Manhattan and now and again LA, but wishing more often Paris... I'll see you soon.<br />
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I believe there is a hangar dance out here that I am to attend.</div>
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Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-76485735382228546442013-05-21T07:48:00.001-07:002013-05-21T07:51:40.434-07:00Skyfall Wears<br />
Ralph Fiennes suspender button placement in the new 007 movie was terrible. Outside that, the movie was splendid.<br /><br />
I was pretty keen on all the wears Tom Ford made for Daniel Craig. Very well tailored and fitted for a man with a muscular physique. Very little leeway for any fat. I particularly was fond of the tab collars Craig wore. You see the entire film as having Craig channel that clean "man cutting through the city" look of the 1960s. It was quite an effect to my eye seeing Craigs wears next to those that they put Fiennes in. Fiennes looks were a bit more 90s in style with cloth that was cut to drape away... built up shoulders to the jackets, shirts that bloused out. Fiennes clothing looked clumsy and staid, even if just by a tad when juxtaposition to the clean action ready look of Craig. Very well done.<br />
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<br />Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-50067012967477606072013-02-09T21:12:00.001-08:002013-02-09T21:22:30.422-08:00Feeding My Eyewear Obsession<br />
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As an optician at Hotel De VIlle Eyewear, I got to study faces in a whole new way. I'd learned the intrinsic differences that made a cat eye frame work on one woman and not another. The bold attitude it took to carry off a thick frame that could look obnoxious on one man, ridiculous on another, and still well suited to another. In that time I studied myself of course, and on an excursion of study to Oliver Peoples on Sunset I discovered something that gave my heart glee... a pair of 1930s styled P3 shaped amber sunglasses with minty green lenses that suited me to a tee. I had to have them. </div>
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I receive at least a few questions a week about where I got them, so I'll break it all down here and now. The glasses are a reissue of the O'Malley, a popular style that Oliver Peoples made back in the late 1980s when the company was new and on the covers of the most well known fashion magazines around the world. I tend to think the reissue of these glasses, and the others in the vintage lineup have given Oliver Peoples a new energy, a good fresh energy as they return to their roots. Anywho, I spent a nice amount of money on them and used my skills to make them fit me perfectly so that I don't notice when they are on... comfy! </div>
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With the specs came a classic clam shaped case with a beautiful crushed velvet liner... the case is something that slides neatly into a jacket pocket. </div>
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It's not easy to find a good pair of amber colored frames from the 1930s, and quite frankly I'm not really needing to go on that hunt with the discovery of these. The acetate used to make them isn't brittle, and the lenses have a nice anti reflective coating on the inside for me but not on the outside for you. In these ways, the specs are better than vintage.</div>
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I present to you the O'Malley by Oliver Peoples. Just one of many in their vintage reproduction line. Part of the 1980s does 1930s eyewear revival.</div>
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Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-31047575567021218822012-12-24T11:09:00.002-08:002012-12-24T11:21:03.369-08:00Collar of Things to Come<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: "Lucida Grande"; font-size: 13.0pt;">There are few things as beloved among shirt aficionados as the
collarless shirt. The classically attired gent feels unusually inspired and
cleverly correct in knowing he can swap out his collar after a long day. Or he
may just lose it altogether, preferring to pocket the thing for later
reattachment. Vintage examples of the collarless shirt are prized possessions
in many a collection, but 1920s Arrows and Van Heusens don’t lend themselves to
daily wear. </span><span style="font-family: "Lucida Grande"; font-size: 11.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFZQJHE84UtFCX7X69KRao3WOcRf180xa9lHtPPc6fGr-cZpVKxyGGaU_4OAbjdn53d0-pHnWhwYn1szrBWyQtkps8IljtEpCS0rCe85_F3l0w3fBV1t8rrjbKan69dYR4bmp8K39QKwQ/s1600/securedownload-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFZQJHE84UtFCX7X69KRao3WOcRf180xa9lHtPPc6fGr-cZpVKxyGGaU_4OAbjdn53d0-pHnWhwYn1szrBWyQtkps8IljtEpCS0rCe85_F3l0w3fBV1t8rrjbKan69dYR4bmp8K39QKwQ/s320/securedownload-2.jpg" width="239" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><span style="font-family: "Lucida Grande"; font-size: 13.0pt;"><br />We at Matt Deckard Apparel are proud and pleased to announce a
collarless shirt that will become your favorite for special occasions or as
your daily go-to. Its construction is unmatched in the industry. Every seam is finely
stitched. The fit is generous without being a balloon. The cuffs narrow enough
along the wrist to keep from sliding down onto the hand. Of course, shirts have
always had collars, were you a working man, and your collar was therefore
likely blue. Detachable collars fell out of favor in the early 1930s – should
you be seen in one, you were either dreadfully old-fashioned or a bloated
plutocrat. Nowadays, the glint of a gold collar button merely signifies that
you’re cool; not that we have anything against dreadfully old-fashioned bloated
plutocrats. (Some of our best friends are dreadfully old-fashioned bloated
plutocrats.) If you’ve never worn a detachable collar shirt, you will find that
it changes how you dress. That extra step taken at your wardrobe does in fact
put you on a higher plane. Those of you who wear detachable collar shirts,
we’re preaching to the converted: but do try one of ours. The attention to
detail has come from endless time spent with stacks of interbellum shirts, only
we go the extra length to make them a hair better than the best shirtmakers of
1927. Is that chutzpah? Moxie? That we aim to be the world’s finest custom
shirtmaker is no secret. Honestly, big whoop, ‘tis the claim every custom
shirtmaker makes. But more importantly, we want our shirts to be the most
interesting and most-beloved-by-their-wearers in the world. And this shirt is
our new standard in that regard. We know that the Matt Deckard Apparel client
is a particular and judicious character. This shirt was created with him in
mind. This shirt was created with you in mind. </span><span style="font-family: "Lucida Grande"; font-size: 11.0pt;"> <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-family: "Lucida Grande"; font-size: 11.0pt;">www.mattdeckard.com</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #262626; font-family: 'Lucida Grande';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 17px;"><br /></span></span></div>
<!--EndFragment-->Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-86878724458931627542012-12-09T13:45:00.003-08:002012-12-23T23:36:09.582-08:00Presenting: Tidbits on Clark Gable's Tailored Wears<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikFbcAnahJFR1w_rsXxSeg7Boi3hcAipzT3ULgZpNHPQ5EOQb57l0mJIFPmNDyeNky1j6Hh3q3bXyS4_aMYWxozQLv4uV0CCDNN6kK7eTb5DDzFP5HRYB0cROowXD8f6s1z5hF-q-gUaU/s1600/387254_10150367881943811_86562329_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikFbcAnahJFR1w_rsXxSeg7Boi3hcAipzT3ULgZpNHPQ5EOQb57l0mJIFPmNDyeNky1j6Hh3q3bXyS4_aMYWxozQLv4uV0CCDNN6kK7eTb5DDzFP5HRYB0cROowXD8f6s1z5hF-q-gUaU/s320/387254_10150367881943811_86562329_n.jpg" width="240" /></span></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">You can see how balance and
drape of the masculine look of the 1930s was perfected in the suits Clark Gable wore. In 2012, we live in a time where
pants and vests fight for where a man’s waist should be, but in the eyes of
Eddie Schmidt in the 1930s (Clark Gable's Tailor), there was no wondering, he knew exactly where and how to outfit a man. You can just see in his creations that anatomy takes precedence, from the break of the shoulder to the nape of the neck, to the point at which his trouser waistbands match up with his lowest vest buttons, you can see the comfort that comes from that proper fit in
every movement. For example on Clark Gable, In movies such as It Happened one Night and
Dancing Lady, suits that Gable has to wear are not only more extravagant and accentuated in design than their counterparts from a decade earlier (1920s suits that were more about fit than they were altering a man's proportions), but you can see with the right tailoring how Gable is at ease, acting casual even when
dressed to the nines in clothes that aren't just about fit, but about drape as well. His suits were in harmony with his persona, and I blame
his tailor. We can go into the tales of how Clark Gable Demanded that Eddie
make all his wears for all his pictures, even Gone with the wind (there was quite a battle over getting Eddie to work on that one), but I’d
rather take a look at why I think Eddie Schmidt was a true master at what he did. </span></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana; mso-themecolor: text1;">By the way, not buttoning the bottom button on a vest is a decision, not a rule. If the vest cuts away so the button wont reach, then the tailor made the decision for you.</span></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana; mso-themecolor: text1;">Now to the vests</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">One striking difference between what you see on Gable and what you see on most modern suits is how short the vest is and how high the trousers are. Of course in the 1920s you'd see low waisted trousers quite often and you'd have longer vests to compensate, but by the 1930s fashion sent mens waistbands higher (it's rumored that The Motion Picture Production Code had come into play and trouser waistbands were getting higher in order to hide the possibility of seeing a navel but I have yet to find reference to navels in the code or its addendums). The vest is very trim and actually gives Clarks chest a bit of lift, a peacock effect. Something that is best achieved with a good cloth of about 16 oz in weight or more. Anything less tends to look too wrinkled and will pull too much at the buttons if tailored so fitted. It also helps that Clark is in prime shape.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIu3dtxSskW50Ge-G8PjC8N_laIZacmjyYpav8r6m83wFat3UBgIwyWkHrDjtC9rC3apCXmae-cKu94_UIQEZ7Dz7rZLe2Tpw7x_mjGdTSYdqyZDfrxIz2j2mE8EQQYYZP1VHCdH_FGMY/s1600/Matt+Deckard+Clark+Gable+Vest+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIu3dtxSskW50Ge-G8PjC8N_laIZacmjyYpav8r6m83wFat3UBgIwyWkHrDjtC9rC3apCXmae-cKu94_UIQEZ7Dz7rZLe2Tpw7x_mjGdTSYdqyZDfrxIz2j2mE8EQQYYZP1VHCdH_FGMY/s320/Matt+Deckard+Clark+Gable+Vest+3.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Look at the cut, like a scimitar slash from a skilled hand. When buttoned, the cut of the vest looks beautifully trim, gently curving over his hips and hiding his trouser waistband, it's as though it's molded to his body. Armhole high enough so that the vest holds its place while not cutting into the armpit. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Kc40PWTBxA-BB8QlZiXKwQWJEqwOGxt4A5sK_YesE5CT8rXZB_l1XJYmR0DBGdwtycvGtHeGC84uLvlKypBqdwA4vmfLXFwH3-KzwrnLbwneFxYnZkHqcoBOyXe1fhZCSZv1D2w4h-8/s1600/Matt+Deckard+Clark+Gable+Vest+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Kc40PWTBxA-BB8QlZiXKwQWJEqwOGxt4A5sK_YesE5CT8rXZB_l1XJYmR0DBGdwtycvGtHeGC84uLvlKypBqdwA4vmfLXFwH3-KzwrnLbwneFxYnZkHqcoBOyXe1fhZCSZv1D2w4h-8/s320/Matt+Deckard+Clark+Gable+Vest+4.jpg" width="180" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana; mso-themecolor: text1;">Now to the jackets</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">The waist is pinched… quite pinched. This trim look was kind
of the trademark of the 30s man. The 20s were about fitted trousers and sack
coats that carried over from the post frock coat era, and the 30s were about
sharp-shouldered bold chested masculinity and draping trousers. The shoulders became broader, the waists became snugger, and the jacket skirts flared away to point out the fulcrum of the body where the trouser waist and the jacket and vest all met at one point. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">One button to center it all!</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Now to the trousers</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">While jackets were about controlling the fit and accentuating the waist, Eddie went with an all out drape that fell straight while standing tall, but swathed and rippled while a man was in movement. Quite dramatic. And again... high waisted and meeting with the center point of the jacket. Balanced! The trousers narrowed a little toward the bottom as to not swallow the show, but did not peg to a point where one would look like he was standing on an apple.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: white;">Anywho, just wanted to get some of my thoughts out there regarding why I love the looks of Eddie Schmidt's tailored good on Gable. Also just needed to see if my keyboard still worked, since I've been behind on a few articles and need to give my writing (as bad as it may seem) a bit of a workout.</span></div>
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<span style="color: white; font-family: Times; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana; mso-themecolor: text1;">Take care, and see you next entry!</span></div>
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<!--EndFragment-->Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-18649075232085162482012-11-25T12:53:00.001-08:002012-12-03T21:18:43.828-08:00Romance wears a spear point collar<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">I'm proud to introduce to you, the Paramount collar dress shirt! </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">It took months of work to get these shirts to come out exactly as I wanted them... shirts that look as though they came off a rack in the 1930s, back when romance came in a spear point collar. </span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">A shirt with the look and feel of a dead-stock vintage shirt that doesn't just end at the collar, the detail is seen in every aspect of of its design, from yoke to tails... no detail was missed.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO0jaPqftmkMRQjDoqyvFAksqLc5C5UBEYWJdGiI9849YhGojmIv85R8dXz3e415Fd7n8m5cir36HsPbcep6DRpoHxCCbfQpWuezVuhrRR8Jy-H5_pmgQbUiCf3jLPxWpy-u1lfhLqj54/s1600/69726_10151121803633811_1344130265_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO0jaPqftmkMRQjDoqyvFAksqLc5C5UBEYWJdGiI9849YhGojmIv85R8dXz3e415Fd7n8m5cir36HsPbcep6DRpoHxCCbfQpWuezVuhrRR8Jy-H5_pmgQbUiCf3jLPxWpy-u1lfhLqj54/s320/69726_10151121803633811_1344130265_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">Unfused but double stitched. I love collars that have a mind of their own and don't look like cardboard on your neck, the Old Hollywood look. I don't wear collar stays, but you might, so I put in a vintage style collar stay pocket that runs along the edge of the collar rather than down the center.</span><br />
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Classic long butterfly tails, just like in the 1930s</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn0R43a_bcuVqvVX50ymNBBqCj7qjftUFjlzajUxgxRwq6PkPIIJuK4A_DogMQlMKVx1u2Qk9ciie3CBb7cwokWvxTDPKAfSkUpehaimz_OvbjaiuPla-EZexImKpBGVooicpLtAgnB20/s1600/222498_10151148664673811_1403837977_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn0R43a_bcuVqvVX50ymNBBqCj7qjftUFjlzajUxgxRwq6PkPIIJuK4A_DogMQlMKVx1u2Qk9ciie3CBb7cwokWvxTDPKAfSkUpehaimz_OvbjaiuPla-EZexImKpBGVooicpLtAgnB20/s320/222498_10151148664673811_1403837977_n.jpg" width="285" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 15px;">And for those that have had trouble finding a proper collarless shirt that takes stiff collars, this model comes with spaces for studs front and back and comes with a detachable spearpoint collar.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6eO9fbC5dc9hyj4YmdhjlZVwz8lTgCiJMDUgSaz1LW4sdOhEiFIRgb_ZKuzmrDk-p-Onfqhuj8aLkr2Jfo9sACCAgH0Iig73p09s6H5g2qnp5pqer72d81w1da_EBG3jl_t_1GElhp4c/s1600/IMG_0744.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6eO9fbC5dc9hyj4YmdhjlZVwz8lTgCiJMDUgSaz1LW4sdOhEiFIRgb_ZKuzmrDk-p-Onfqhuj8aLkr2Jfo9sACCAgH0Iig73p09s6H5g2qnp5pqer72d81w1da_EBG3jl_t_1GElhp4c/s320/IMG_0744.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial, Tahoma, Calibri, Geneva, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px;">They are on sale for the holiday season, so check out www.mattdeckard.com for cloth choices.</span></span></div>
Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-19148358525177832802012-11-04T10:54:00.000-08:002012-11-04T10:54:02.469-08:00Rescheduling of tweedI'm going to move the Third Annual Los Angeles Tweed Pub Crawl to Saturday. Do to several scheduling conflicts and out of respect to a memorial that will take place friday for a well known and well respected member of our vintage scene. Please make note of the change and I hope to see you all at the Biltmore Saturday -- Matt DeckardMatt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2965542000540113027.post-84336055273088455362012-10-31T22:04:00.001-07:002012-10-31T22:04:59.150-07:00They Might Have Got Rid of the Details But It's Still in the Details <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">To be obvious, it’s the wristwatch… at least that’s what advertisers tend to show, but what happened to all the cool men’s jewelry? All those little details that showed who you were, be it a fastidious fop or an on the ball details man. The wristwatch is one detail, yes, yet it’s not the first thing people see. In fact, it’s hard to see unless you are going out of your way to show it off. So here are a few other options when it comes to the man who doesn’t have the time to pull back his shirt sleeve every time he reaches out to shake hands.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">THE COLLAR BAR</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> The collar bar was a common staple in a man’s dresser drawer - a piece of metal with a clip at either end. You would put your tie on, place the bar under the tie, clipping the ends to the collar points to give the tie a much needed lift. It could be gaudy and gold or subtle and silver, and it was a detail that accentuated personality along with wardrobe. They would look like swords, guns, anything, even a plain shiny bar, and when it was the right collar bar it didn’t look like you were wearing too much, it just looked like you were you.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">THE TIE BAR</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> The tie bar was that thing that kept your tie from flapping in the wind or falling out of your jacket. It clipped your tie to your shirt. When you are on your way to Budapest fighting off that spy on the roof of a train, the last thing you need is your tie getting in the way. Once standard issue and seen on men throughout the office, now they are an obscure object that some notice a little too much if paired with modern ties… perhaps it’s because today’s ties just don’t take well to tie bars. They were for a time when ties were narrower and the materials were not as thick. Back then, ties could get caught up in the wind, but today’s ties are so thick that they are akin to wearing a piece of cardboard down the front of your chest.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">THE WATCH CHAIN</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> The watch chain could be hung from the lapel button hole, falling into your chest pocket, connected to a belt loop with the chain leading to the pants pocket, or draped across your vest pockets in a myriad of manners. It was your connection to time and one of the staples in a man’s wardrobe that disappeared with the invention of the men’s wristwatch. Ads were all over magazines and jewelers carried any type of chain you could imagine, from ones that looked like steel cables to ones that looked like braided gold. Some men even went without the chain and opted for a simple shoestring. Nothing like having your wrist free and knowing your watch is securely fastened to some part of your suit. Train conductors had steel chains and bankers had gold. It was a status symbol more noticeable than any wristwatch could ever be.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">THE SIGNET RING</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> The signet ring keeps you in the know when you are trying to determine if you are talking to an ally or an enemy. Crests of companies, regiments, clubs, societies, families, and fraternities, they have long been used to weed out those that did not belong and leave imprints in wax to seal messages. A subtle defining item that says loud and proud ‘I am a Freemason,’ and it doesn’t wear out like the silk-screened logo on a t-shirt. Whether you are a Knight Templar or an Eagle Scout, that emblem on your ring can someday get you that airline seat upgrade for which you’ve always been hoping.</span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> All of the above are little details that can easily be forsaken, though should never be dismissed. Mixing and matching fabrics is nice when putting on a jacket and tie, but truly going the extra inch and adding the details is what makes the well dressed stand out from the dressed. There are men hunting for just the right wristwatch and there is no shame in having the right wristwatch, but it’s one thing that has to be pulled out to be displayed and once put back under the cuff, it’s something you have to brag about in order to give it attention. The items above are out in the open and say nothing about you other than that you truly do have style and don’t need to continuously adjust your tie in order to show it off. </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">For good measure... a pic of me wearing a trusty vintage collar bar</span></div>
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Matt Deckardhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14945783626199983289noreply@blogger.com0